SC10 4x4 Thread
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Funny...
Read the FT version of the website...."With the addition of the Factory Team carbon fiber chassis brace rod, the chassis flex has been made more consistent and predictable for an overall improvement in handling and traction"
It should read" We added a chassis brace rod so the truck doesn't break in half, leaving you with a DYI situation"
There is only 1 company to actually talk about issues with there products openly. but they don't make a Electric 1/10 car YET...
I will have to look at the price... dif...
What is the weight dif??? Team vrs the FT??
Read the FT version of the website...."With the addition of the Factory Team carbon fiber chassis brace rod, the chassis flex has been made more consistent and predictable for an overall improvement in handling and traction"
It should read" We added a chassis brace rod so the truck doesn't break in half, leaving you with a DYI situation"
There is only 1 company to actually talk about issues with there products openly. but they don't make a Electric 1/10 car YET...
I will have to look at the price... dif...
What is the weight dif??? Team vrs the FT??
Team Kit: 6.12
FT Kit: 6.06
Also: the Truck will never break from lacking a chassis brace. That's just silly to say. It's performance, not durability. Bashing needs to flex.
Call AE, they'll admit when they're wrong. And if you're civil, They'll solve it for you.
Tech Adept
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The FT is the way to go....
The battery config looks great...
A wonderfull follow up....
I still have my t4 so a heavier sct x2 doesn't interest me...but 4x4 sct does....
This looks great...
The battery config looks great...
A wonderfull follow up....
I still have my t4 so a heavier sct x2 doesn't interest me...but 4x4 sct does....
This looks great...
Tech Master
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Sal
Tech Master
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I learned something today.
For all the castle esc users, if you have a castle link you can check the kv of your motor. When you do the torque test a older version of the castle link, would show you the actual kv for the motor.
I guess it caused a bit of a S-storm, so castle took that part out, kinda.
If you do the torque test, and go to the file tab, view the print preview and it will show you the KV.
My 3800 is actually closer to 3900.
Thought I'd share......
For all the castle esc users, if you have a castle link you can check the kv of your motor. When you do the torque test a older version of the castle link, would show you the actual kv for the motor.
I guess it caused a bit of a S-storm, so castle took that part out, kinda.
If you do the torque test, and go to the file tab, view the print preview and it will show you the KV.
My 3800 is actually closer to 3900.
Thought I'd share......
Tech Regular
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Anyone run Orion r10 pro in sc10 4x4 ? Any heat problems? If so what motor?
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I feel like the r10 pro is definately the smoothest ESC for this truck, especially the brakes, which can be tuned to stop the truck so smoothly and quickly without breaking traction or skipping the belt. Something I have not been able to achieve on any other ESC.
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If you're going to do all the Factory Team upgrades, then the Factory Team kit is a better value than buying the upgraded parts (not available yet....supposedly will be available in another month or so).
To be competitive, the RTR really should get:
One of either a centre diff, clutch basket, or a set of Garodiscs to replace the squishy stock slipper/slipper pads (centre diff probably being the best for most tracks).
Sway bars
Chassis Brace
There are lots of other things to get, but with those three things you can get a good start. (Obviously tires, shock oil and springs, and diff oil to help you tune the truck to your track, but you'd need those with any truck....)
The center diff and the upgraded version of the center diff are likely the best slipper/diff options. I'm pretty sure that once Marcus has the upgraded version ready, you won't be able to get the older version (why would you want to!)
If you are referring to the upgraded version of the truck, that would likely be the factory team kit that will be available soon. My personal opinion - if you are a national caliber driver, then sure...go for the factory team kit... but if you're like 99% of the rest of us, and you got a good deal on the RTR, get the three upgrades I mentioned above and save the extra cash for track fees. All the factory team bling won't really do you any good until you can pull lap times that are within 1 second of each other for an entire main. Aside from the 3 upgrades mentioned, the factory team kit has blue screws and the ability to use either saddle packs or stick pack batteries....some people say that saddle packs are the way to go in order to get better weight distribution....again, most of the people saying that are capable of drriving a whole main with laser precision consistency. They are almost certianly right...but for most of us, we likely won't notice the difference while we wait for a marshal to pick up our truck....
But that's just my 2 cents....
To be competitive, the RTR really should get:
One of either a centre diff, clutch basket, or a set of Garodiscs to replace the squishy stock slipper/slipper pads (centre diff probably being the best for most tracks).
Sway bars
Chassis Brace
There are lots of other things to get, but with those three things you can get a good start. (Obviously tires, shock oil and springs, and diff oil to help you tune the truck to your track, but you'd need those with any truck....)
The center diff and the upgraded version of the center diff are likely the best slipper/diff options. I'm pretty sure that once Marcus has the upgraded version ready, you won't be able to get the older version (why would you want to!)
If you are referring to the upgraded version of the truck, that would likely be the factory team kit that will be available soon. My personal opinion - if you are a national caliber driver, then sure...go for the factory team kit... but if you're like 99% of the rest of us, and you got a good deal on the RTR, get the three upgrades I mentioned above and save the extra cash for track fees. All the factory team bling won't really do you any good until you can pull lap times that are within 1 second of each other for an entire main. Aside from the 3 upgrades mentioned, the factory team kit has blue screws and the ability to use either saddle packs or stick pack batteries....some people say that saddle packs are the way to go in order to get better weight distribution....again, most of the people saying that are capable of drriving a whole main with laser precision consistency. They are almost certianly right...but for most of us, we likely won't notice the difference while we wait for a marshal to pick up our truck....
But that's just my 2 cents....
My RTR goes fine with the standard slipper. Correct tension is key. I tighten the nut about 4mm in....
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Then I ordered Garodiscs and only have to worry about keeping the nut tight...
Tech Adept
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Running one in my B4...like buttah
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Tech Adept
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i had a novak havoc pro with x drive blew it up then went to the orion r10 pro i run the fan the temps but it feels cool after a good 7-10 mins i love this esc i wont buy anything else and ive had just about every brand of esc orion gets my money even though with programmer its almost 300 bucks worth every penny its so damn smooth and the brakes are amazing
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i had a novak havoc pro with x drive blew it up then went to the orion r10 pro i run the fan the temps but it feels cool after a good 7-10 mins i love this esc i wont buy anything else and ive had just about every brand of esc orion gets my money even though with programmer its almost 300 bucks worth every penny its so damn smooth and the brakes are amazing