SC10 4x4 Thread
#1681
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Question for the SC10-4² owners - how much work is involved in getting at the diffs for service?
Reason I ask is because my previous belt drive experience is limited to the Tamiya DB-01. While I lived the belt drive setup on that car and the lack of maintenance, getting to the diffs for a refresh was a serious exercise in self-flagellation. IIRC, it took removing 12 screws from the covers and popping the shock tops off the towers to get at the diffs, but the plastic tamiya used for the chassis made screw removal and replacement a REAL PITA, even with SS screws and waxing them before install. Thankfully, the driveline in that car stayed adjusted and clean for a long time, so I didn't have to do it often.
This truck looks like a killer setup, just hoping the maintenance is easier. From what I can see in pictures, it looks like there are less fasteners required to hold the belt tunnels on this truck.
Reason I ask is because my previous belt drive experience is limited to the Tamiya DB-01. While I lived the belt drive setup on that car and the lack of maintenance, getting to the diffs for a refresh was a serious exercise in self-flagellation. IIRC, it took removing 12 screws from the covers and popping the shock tops off the towers to get at the diffs, but the plastic tamiya used for the chassis made screw removal and replacement a REAL PITA, even with SS screws and waxing them before install. Thankfully, the driveline in that car stayed adjusted and clean for a long time, so I didn't have to do it often.
This truck looks like a killer setup, just hoping the maintenance is easier. From what I can see in pictures, it looks like there are less fasteners required to hold the belt tunnels on this truck.
Last edited by buzzbomber; 05-20-2011 at 11:24 AM. Reason: added info.
#1682
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Does it really matter? Measure wherever you want on the truck. Then measure that same spot when changing it for your duration of ownership. Am I the only one here that can pick a decent ride height just by eyeballing it and from feel? I use a camber gauge to get wheel alignment all alike, but I can level out my truck and pick a good ride height just by looking at the thing.
can you make a video of your shock build? May be easier to diagnose the problem.
Rick Hohwart: what are your thoughts about the weight balance that people are talking about concerning the amount of added weight being reported? Is it related to battery pack weight? if so, what pack weight do you believe works best?
Rick Hohwart: what are your thoughts about the weight balance that people are talking about concerning the amount of added weight being reported? Is it related to battery pack weight? if so, what pack weight do you believe works best?
#1683
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Does it really matter? Measure wherever you want on the truck. Then measure that same spot when changing it for your duration of ownership. Am I the only one here that can pick a decent ride height just by eyeballing it and from feel? I use a camber gauge to get wheel alignment all alike, but I can level out my truck and pick a good ride height just by looking at the thing.
LOL"LOL"LOL" now that right there is real funny LOL"LOL"
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
I can do that too" no biggie, but when your trying a team set up they
never tell you where they are taking it from on the truck or if the body
is on or off.
This makes it hard to try someone elses set ups if you have nothing to
go on other then by guess and by golly"
![EEK!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/eek.gif)
If someone asks my set up I can tell them step by step exactly so they
can try it for themselves. I don't just be a smart azz and say I just eye
ball it or I go by feel. I set stuff by feel then I take notes so if someone
asks I can help them out..
This hobby/sport is about helping each other (at least I thought it was?)
#1684
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FedEx just dropped off the truck. See you guys in two days
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#1685
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Thats how I build them and it still wants to lock up. I've taken then apart so many times and started over in frustration that I've almost used a full bottle of 25 weight oil and my large can of motor spray.
#1686
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hey guys, so im building my kit right now and up until i got to the shocks everything was going great. i took them apart to change the oil and grease up the seals and they have been fighting me non-stop to be consistent. i know everyone has their own way of building them but i gotta say my Kyosho and Losi shocks have Never fought me this hard. i build all my shocks with bladders and i was wondering if anyone has been having the same troubles when building with bladders.
I was also having hard time balancing shocks. I use the Losi shock gauge. I am currently using bladders and I removed the bleeder screw like Rick says. That helped. I ultimately also found out the shock boots trap air. To remedy I just made a small slit with my exacto knife. That way air can expel but slit will seal enough to keep most of the dirt out. I may ultimately remove boots altogether as I mainly run this truck indoors.
After doing the above two things my shocks were then in balance. I May alos try removing one of the seals as there seems to be lots of stiction.
Hope this helps.
#1687
Tech Addict
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I guess I don't see copying somebody else's ride height as such a big deal compared to others here. It was a serious question, not trying to bust anybody's balls over it. I figure ride height is pretty track dependent, so I would think people would set it to what they want, not really base it off somebody else's setup sheet. I just go as low as I can based on track conditions.
Anyway...
I had a set of Losi 8ight shocks leftover from my old SCRT10 I decided to install. They fit extremely well and the soft red springs put it at the same height fully backed off as the stock shocks do with the stock springs full backed off. Just had to go with the inside holes on the upper mounts.
![](http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosting/944dd6b6917965a.jpg)
![](http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosting/944dd6b691e7aed.jpg)
Anyway...
I had a set of Losi 8ight shocks leftover from my old SCRT10 I decided to install. They fit extremely well and the soft red springs put it at the same height fully backed off as the stock shocks do with the stock springs full backed off. Just had to go with the inside holes on the upper mounts.
![](http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosting/944dd6b6917965a.jpg)
![](http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosting/944dd6b691e7aed.jpg)
![](http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosting/944dd6b691a970f.jpg)
#1688
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Thank you Rick for clarifying the ride height issue. Now I've got to go eye ball some shock oil.....
sorry had to throw that in there
let's all just relax
sorry had to throw that in there
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#1689
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Anyway...
I had a set of Losi 8ight shocks leftover from my old SCRT10 I decided to install. They fit extremely well and the soft red springs put it at the same height fully backed off as the stock shocks do with the stock springs full backed off. Just had to go with the inside holes on the upper mounts.
I had a set of Losi 8ight shocks leftover from my old SCRT10 I decided to install. They fit extremely well and the soft red springs put it at the same height fully backed off as the stock shocks do with the stock springs full backed off. Just had to go with the inside holes on the upper mounts.
I still have my losi shocks form the scrt as well and have been considering sticking them on the sc10 but I am driving it better with the stock setup (sans diff and shock oil choices) than I drove the Jammin after 6 months of tweeking.
#1690
Tech Master
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But Chad Due is correct, you measure from between the center/front chassis and center/rear chassis.
#1691
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Have you driven it yet and if so how does it compare to the feel of the stock shocks?
I still have my losi shocks form the scrt as well and have been considering sticking them on the sc10 but I am driving it better with the stock setup (sans diff and shock oil choices) than I drove the Jammin after 6 months of tweeking.
I still have my losi shocks form the scrt as well and have been considering sticking them on the sc10 but I am driving it better with the stock setup (sans diff and shock oil choices) than I drove the Jammin after 6 months of tweeking.
#1693
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I guess I don't see copying somebody else's ride height as such a big deal compared to others here. It was a serious question, not trying to bust anybody's balls over it. I figure ride height is pretty track dependent, so I would think people would set it to what they want, not really base it off somebody else's setup sheet. I just go as low as I can based on track conditions.
Anyway...
I had a set of Losi 8ight shocks leftover from my old SCRT10 I decided to install. They fit extremely well and the soft red springs put it at the same height fully backed off as the stock shocks do with the stock springs full backed off. Just had to go with the inside holes on the upper mounts.
Anyway...
I had a set of Losi 8ight shocks leftover from my old SCRT10 I decided to install. They fit extremely well and the soft red springs put it at the same height fully backed off as the stock shocks do with the stock springs full backed off. Just had to go with the inside holes on the upper mounts.
And TW your truck looks good, you are going to get flamed by the hard cores for adding 1/8th scale shocks. But honestly I think it's a prolly the only upgrade this truck need. The stock shocks suck IMO. I thought about doing the same since I have a set laying around.
#1695
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Question for the SC10-4² owners - how much work is involved in getting at the diffs for service?
Reason I ask is because my previous belt drive experience is limited to the Tamiya DB-01. While I lived the belt drive setup on that car and the lack of maintenance, getting to the diffs for a refresh was a serious exercise in self-flagellation. IIRC, it took removing 12 screws from the covers and popping the shock tops off the towers to get at the diffs, but the plastic tamiya used for the chassis made screw removal and replacement a REAL PITA, even with SS screws and waxing them before install. Thankfully, the driveline in that car stayed adjusted and clean for a long time, so I didn't have to do it often.
This truck looks like a killer setup, just hoping the maintenance is easier. From what I can see in pictures, it looks like there are less fasteners required to hold the belt tunnels on this truck.
Reason I ask is because my previous belt drive experience is limited to the Tamiya DB-01. While I lived the belt drive setup on that car and the lack of maintenance, getting to the diffs for a refresh was a serious exercise in self-flagellation. IIRC, it took removing 12 screws from the covers and popping the shock tops off the towers to get at the diffs, but the plastic tamiya used for the chassis made screw removal and replacement a REAL PITA, even with SS screws and waxing them before install. Thankfully, the driveline in that car stayed adjusted and clean for a long time, so I didn't have to do it often.
This truck looks like a killer setup, just hoping the maintenance is easier. From what I can see in pictures, it looks like there are less fasteners required to hold the belt tunnels on this truck.
truck is very easy to take apart and put together, the belt maintanance is second to none, especially if you have an automatic screwdriver thingy... too my dff apart and back on in a matter of 10 mins during a race so its not that difficult