Mizchief

I think that the heavier weight up front causes too much resistance on the center diff which then causes it to transfer more power to the rear tires instead of pulling both wheels in the direction they are pointing.

I think the heavy weight up front works best in a scenario where the back end is loose enough to allow the fronts to pull them around more like a front wheel drive car would, but when you balance out the front pull with the push from the rear it just makes the truck drive in a straight line.

thebizz

iTrader: (52)

Mantis Im thinking of getting the ball diff . Im scratching my head on the drastic oil change in the diffs. Im running 20k-front 7k rear.
whats the method to the big change in fluids.

Farmer_John

iTrader: (3)

I've read, followed and contributed when I felt it prudent since the day THIS thread started. Bought a first run kit the minute it hit Speedster Hobbies (one of the coolest shop/tracks that will EVER exist. Long may her memory stay) and have worked it into a bit of a lather making it work.

I'm not even arguing with you friend. I was taught at an early age never to argue with fools.

I will say this. The potential of this truck is great, no matter who is holding the transmitter. There's no perfect setup for everyone and it's not the truck for the ham fisted.

So I seriously feel I'm best off doing what I'm doing. Let the Marcus' of the hobby develop bits to make it better. If I can learn from them, then good. For the record, I haven't made a major setup change since July, when I discovered that around 4mm of washers under the inner ball links erased the truck's tendency to snap roll into corners...

I'll do well when I do well and be happy about it. When I do bad, it's me, not the truck. It's like yelling at a marshall when you case a big triple and end up on your lid...he didn't put you there, now did he?

Oh, it wasn't the A, but I'm happy with it: http://www.liverc.com/view_result_fi...8C_Main%29.xml

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

I have one more day. (tomorrow) to do any testing before a storm comes in and I rack my RC for another week, So I want to get some good testing in tomorrow.

I'll set up a diff with 5k, i've been running the 3/3 for a couple weeks: didn't get much of a response as far as on power steering with or without it. But I may have overlooked it.

The "heavier in the front; center diff" comment is interesting though...

Okay Buddy.

Marcus should answer that, as the designer.

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

Hey, AE Chris!
(random thought)

Please send my regards to the designers of the FT 13mm Shocks. 3 months without a change and it's nearly clear... Damn.




Btw: We're all waiting so impatiently for your big bores for the 2wd.

clastovica

I'm just thinking out loud here. The center diff transfers power to point of least resistance right. So that would mean that while in air all maneuvering control power would be pushed to the rear end. The belt drive would cause enough resistance to divert the power that the slipper diff would transfer to the front. Let me know if my ramblings have any merit.

Chris L

rcmiket

iTrader: (22)

For those guys running the center diff and having problems controlling attitude in the air. Hold the truck in one hand, give it a stab of throttle, then hit full brake. Do the front and rear tires all stop at exactly the same time? If not, then that is most likely the problem.

To everybody with flight control problems- the rotation around the long axis when using throttle or brake is caused by the RATE of change of the rotating assemblies. Angular acceleration, or sometimes called precession.
The reason the Losi trucks are better at this is because they have more rotational mass to accelerate!

I say we plead with Marcus to give his machines a workout and make us some bearing-supported tungsten diffs!!!!

Marcus and friends- mad props on driving that track! I don't think I could even see that far!!!

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Maybe somewhat true/possible but not all the trucks in question ran center diffs.

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

So, outta curiosity.

Has anybody that's having jumping issues tried slamming the front end to its lowest point possible and jacking up the rear (28mm+) without any other changes?

Just askin'. If you're having jumping troubles, give it a shot. You might be pleased.

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

Was there a link someone gave a while back on a chart to make certain weight oils with what you had? Anyone recall?

I have.... 20wt and 27.5 and i'm trying to hit close to 22.5. I know, it's dumb but I'm here now, and everyone's closed.

Wild Cherry

you may have just resolve the problem

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

The only reason any of us were running high front dif fluids is to desensitize the super aggressive steering by giving less turn in. With the center dif running high dif fluid will all but eliminate steering and you will be forced to use brakes to get the truck to turn. By using the Cdif the truck just turns ,pretty much where ever you want and you can be very aggressive. Anyone will tell you that it allows you to basically run anyline you want at anytime, no longer forcing you to run the same line around the track.

Coyote i run 7/5 right now but feel i can go even lighter still in the front since going to the 3-3 block which increases on power steering and rear traction, the only drawback is that on a rough track the 3-3 stiffens the rear up too much , I am still working on that. Since the 3-3 puts more force on the front tires the truck accelerates like a bullet!

RCmike and Clastovica, the Cdif is a ball dif and has more natural resistance than a gear dif so it is equal from what i can tell in the air, and seeing as Jeff and others dont have the Cdif that nullifies that theory!!

Farmer John, i feel ya man!! I am not at that point yet, as of right now i am playing to win so this situation has to be figured out and quick! I am the type of guy that squeezes time and i hunt down tenths! Coming from onroad i pride myself with staying fast and consistent and have a knack for pressuring and "bumper" driving!!

SCTDan

iTrader: (9)

Go 2 parts 20 to 1 part 27.5. 20+20+27.5÷3=22.5

heavyjeffd

iTrader: (15)

Hey John, I still wanna come up there for a week or something and do a bunch of racing. I'm trying to finagle it so I go up there with the wife. She goes to see her grandma, I go hang out with you and play with toy cars, ya heard?

Coyote: John is one of the old guard of RC racing, he's been in it longer than most of been alive. I had the pleasure of racing with and seeing John at probably the best indoor clay track that will ever exist (RIP) The Clay Pit/Speedster Hobbies, in Cedar Park TX.

John's style is different. He is casually competitive. He is the definitive club racer. He's not one of the guys that travels to big races a lot and races on big tracks.

To be quite honest, the only reason I run this truck on big tracks is because I'm traveling to big races that are primarily nitro/electric 1/8th scale. Most are only running an SC class because so many people requested it. So clearly these tracks are made for 1/8th.

This in itself is what puts the AE truck at a disadvantage in comparison to a traditional 3 diff setup.

Now in tight/twisty indoor clay, I think the SC10 would spank the bejesus out of an SCTE. I know my SCTE felt like a sloppy pig on indoor clay, the AE on the other hand feels tight and nimble.

So I guess in a way you could say I'm using the wrong tool for the job. It is what it is though...

Maybe in the future AE will release another SC104x4 designed for bigger outdoor tracks that's a direct competitor for the SCTE and a traditional 3 diff design. They'd have all the bases covered then for 4wd SC.

CoyoteSlash

iTrader: (8)

Yeah.... I just figured that out myself a few minutes ago...


Boy do I feel smart.

Thanks man.