SC10 4x4 Thread
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Oh and also, I built both trucks with the stock slipper pad setup, and both seem to pull amazingly well on the street, I also purchased a basket and the georodisk (spelling?) for both, but the way both ran on the street, will the better slipper pads and basket even be necessary? Not sure if I want them to pull much harder off the bottom on dirt like they are pulling on the street.
Also I also noticed the belt tensioners, MUST go on a certain way, so the screw and bearing holds them onto the tensioner. If not, done right, they will slip off. I noticed that while building the trucks.
Also I also noticed the belt tensioners, MUST go on a certain way, so the screw and bearing holds them onto the tensioner. If not, done right, they will slip off. I noticed that while building the trucks.
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Those "little" weights is not going to make the truck so heavy that it will slow it down. I do not think many people put the weights in the chassis slots expect for a couple people. The only way for you to find the sweet spot for you is to try 1 weight in each slot then 2 and see what you like better.
FYI no matter how many weights you add in the slots it still doesnt weigh as much as the Exotek chassis and alot of people run that chassis and have nothing to say but good things about it. I have never heard of people complaining about adding weight or running the Exotek chassis and it makes there truck feel "sluggish"
FYI no matter how many weights you add in the slots it still doesnt weigh as much as the Exotek chassis and alot of people run that chassis and have nothing to say but good things about it. I have never heard of people complaining about adding weight or running the Exotek chassis and it makes there truck feel "sluggish"
1/4 in each pocket, two in the middle totalling 3ounces in NO way hinders the truck. We're not adding a POUND of lead.
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Btw, my opinion doesn't really matter because I don't own a Exotek chassis. But I feel the weights are just as good as a 100.00 chassis and you can take 1 out of the battery side and adjust weight accordingly from tabs that CAME WITH THE TRUCK. =D
Chad, jaybird95, CoyoteSlash - Hey many thanks for your inputs guys... I didn't consider the weight of the Exotec chassis so your right... if that doesn't slow things down especially with Tekin 4000KV & 4600KV motors then getting a bunch of the slots filled with 1/4 weight should not slowing the Truck down... Who knows, maybe the Exotek chassis is in my future... Time to search for a good price for it...
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Many Thanks once again for the tips and recommendations!
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
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i put my friend's exotek on his truck between heats tonight since he was not running it, and ran it a little bit myself. must say.... it is a new truck. i was doubtful as to how much of a difference it would make, but it is quite remarkable. i think the saddle pack conversion is a must with that chassis though, as i describe it as driving a golf cart with a person riding on the back....twitchy steering, but pushing like hell. the center of rotation through a turn felt like it was just in front of the rear axle, hard to control. that being said, i was still able to run about as fast as my current setup (no exotek or brace, just clutch basket). should you shift that battery weight to the front, i think it would balance nicely, and haul ass. was about to give up and get a losi, but am going to get the chassis now.
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Yep its been spoken about many times here. The instructions are misleading but you have it correct. The bearing goes on AFTER the pulley, to hold it in on the lip of the inside of pulley.
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U think the exoteck chassis makes it a different/ better truck, wait till u try the center ball diff from rc shox!!!!!
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Or the Center diff and some lead weight! ![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
/has to
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/has to
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I owned a gold chassis rc10 back when they first came out but have since ran Losi equipment but i just bought a SC104x4 and lovin it. I'm now converted and this is my first 4x4 sc truck. I do have a question about the belt pullies. When I run the over drive front pulley, I run the non-marked pulley on the rear, is this right? I have one more question at this time also. Right now i'm running a 540 7.5 tekin motor, my 550 sc4.54x4 motor will be here Wensday, will this be ok and if it will I'm running the 48p 93t spur gear, what size pinion should I start with to keep from smokin my 7.5 540 motor? Well I guess I do have one more question, with the 540 motor, should I run the clicker not locked down or lock it down? I've ran 2 batteries through it with the 32p gear but put the 48 on it tonight because the motor would heat up to @ 150 in just 2 minutes. Being a fairly new comer to AE, I have to say they make an excellent truck and I love it and won't go back to that other manufacturer. Haven't gotta run it much but I knew right away, I'm hooked.![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
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almost everyone runs locked no matter what
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
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I agree on the center diff, just awesome. The track was loose with a layer of fines on a hard base. the car was able to be drifted with full control through the corners and pulled away from the Losi's and the Durango's not once did I feel the rear was going to come around on me. I wasn't getting the punch i had before with the basket so i needed to have a run up to the big double else I would struggle to make it, but the handling on the rest of the track far out weighed this little problem. Well done to Marcus on this mod, the SC10 4x4 is now a true racer.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (33)
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And that's what the clutch basket was designed for. With the standard slipper, if you set it for a dusty, or loamy track it would glaze the pads halfway through a heat and slip more. The spur would get hot enough to melt or warp from the heat generated by the slipper.
? Not sure if I want them to pull much harder off the bottom on dirt like they are pulling on the street.
Also I also noticed the belt tensioners, MUST go on a certain way, so the screw and bearing holds them onto the tensioner. If not, done right, they will slip off. I noticed that while building the trucks.
Also I also noticed the belt tensioners, MUST go on a certain way, so the screw and bearing holds them onto the tensioner. If not, done right, they will slip off. I noticed that while building the trucks.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i put my friend's exotek on his truck between heats tonight since he was not running it, and ran it a little bit myself. must say.... it is a new truck. i was doubtful as to how much of a difference it would make, but it is quite remarkable. i think the saddle pack conversion is a must with that chassis though, as i describe it as driving a golf cart with a person riding on the back....twitchy steering, but pushing like hell. the center of rotation through a turn felt like it was just in front of the rear axle, hard to control. that being said, i was still able to run about as fast as my current setup (no exotek or brace, just clutch basket). should you shift that battery weight to the front, i think it would balance nicely, and haul ass. was about to give up and get a losi, but am going to get the chassis now.
EXactly what i have been trying to say! adding lead doesnt have the same effect because it is on the outside edges of the chassis, the weight needs to be as close to centerline as possible or you will have a lazy transitioning truck, same reason why inline saddles work better than side by side saddles. Adding lead to the outside will help in some areas but not anywhere near the same effect as the exotech chassis. I am glad you posted this information!
Tech Master
iTrader: (34)
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And that's what the clutch basket was designed for. With the standard slipper, if you set it for a dusty, or loamy track it would glaze the pads halfway through a heat and slip more. The spur would get hot enough to melt or warp from the heat generated by the slipper.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree on the center diff, just awesome. The track was loose with a layer of fines on a hard base. the car was able to be drifted with full control through the corners and pulled away from the Losi's and the Durango's not once did I feel the rear was going to come around on me. I wasn't getting the punch i had before with the basket so i needed to have a run up to the big double else I would struggle to make it, but the handling on the rest of the track far out weighed this little problem. Well done to Marcus on this mod, the SC10 4x4 is now a true racer.
I am working on V2 of the center dif, first part is being tested today. if all goes well you will get your acceleration back
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I am running the stock set-up with the stick pack and I am noticing when I jump my truck it always seems to lean towards the right. Is this more of a balance issue where the dual batteries would help this or by going with the center diff would help this?
Tech Master
iTrader: (110)
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You want to do the saddle conversion and get a clutch basket from MTK or the center diff from RcShox.
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I have a couple questions..
What gearing should I start with? Tekin pro4 4000kv and a MMP. Plus I just installed the MTK clutch basket and garodisc.
What sway bars should I start out with for front and rear?
Thanks in advance!
What gearing should I start with? Tekin pro4 4000kv and a MMP. Plus I just installed the MTK clutch basket and garodisc.
What sway bars should I start out with for front and rear?
Thanks in advance!