Wild Cherry

Thank you for the link.....

FRONTI3R

iTrader: (8)

Here's a free fix for your belt issues that worked for me for most of the summer - Page 352:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9445415

New belt covers fixed the issue BTW.

GuiltyByAssoc

iTrader: (6)

Hopefully, royolo picks this up.

LouDawg

iTrader: (7)

The only time my belt has popped off was due to the pulley on the tentioner. The pulley was somehow damaged and the lip/edge that prevents the belt from wandering was broken off and allowed the belt to wander off the pulley. It occured after a very nasty lawn dart.

Other than that incident I have yet to have any belt skipping teeth or popping off with or without my chassis brace!

With that said I still recommend a brace for those who dont yet have one.
Super easy to make and very cheap to buy through aftermarket.

Mizchief

Before I would do that, try setting the front tentionor to one of the lowest settings then use the rear to slack it off as needed. This wraps the front pulley nicely and makes it really hard for the belt to come off under any circumstance. I have to back the tentioner off anytime I want to work on the front diff as I can't even force the belt off by hand when setup that way.

darryl80

iTrader: (24)

what would it take to make a sc10 2wd into a sc10 4wd? any help is greatly appreciated.

IRM616

iTrader: (29)

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Can not be done, Sell it and by the 4w.

Chad Smith

It cannot be done sorry, its just impossible

Mik G

iTrader: (36)

Yep took both parts sheet and i could not find a way to do it. Shock oil is about all thats the same.
Mike

old&slow

iTrader: (2)

I dont think anyone has mentioned this , but the bearing that is used inside the tensioner pulley is crap.How many times have ya cleaned and lubed or switched out wheel and diff bearings ... have ya even looked or cleaned and lubed let alone replace the tensioner pulley bearing . I lagged and it went south, caused untrue travel on pulley and worn down edge of pulley, the belt was wandering , never came off but was showing wear in tunnel from rubbing. Takes some load and rpm and it should be replaced with a good bearing when you promptly switch to the aftermarket alum pully.

Yeah ya bought a rtr not a track ready racer. Going to need to update and modd a few items to get the most out of it. Start with tires and wheels to match the conditions you drive, the garo disks for slipper , chassis brace , wheel hexes for sanity of not looking for the damn pins when they fall out or cutting down body pins to mcgyver a fit for said lost pins at track with no spares. That should cure most of the major issues then the fine tuning can start if you are that serious.

so read up on this fourm , go with the mods you feel you need for your application and budget and have fun. Bottom line dont get so serious with your little toy truck it is supposed to be fun and you will be tinkering and cleaning it with it more than driving it.

cheers

O&S

<PsOp>

tekin rs pro and pro4 4000kv combo

I want to know if anyone using this setup for their sc104x4 with no heat

issue in the esc, running it on a small indoor track? I want to ask here first

before I install mine. thanks

jaybird95

iTrader: (14)

If you go on the pro 4 thread and read back I'm pretty sure Randy Pike said not to use this esc. RX8 is built for the motor and the weight its moving around.

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

You are correct. the RSPro can not handle 4 pole motors. You WILL let the smoke out of it.

FRONTI3R

iTrader: (8)

Think of the Pro 4 motors as a 1 to 3 turn motor. The RS Pro can't handle THAT power.