SC10 4x4 Thread
#1561
Rs should work , but recommend a fan to cool ESC
#1562
#1564
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Posts: 2,974
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
#1565
I ran the RS in my slash for 1/2 a year with a 4.5 550. It worked great however heat was a problem, with a fan max temps would be in the 110-120 range after a 12 minute heat. If the fan failed which it did from time to time temps would shoot up to 170-190 range, when I replaced the speed control I cleaned the RS and found the FET's had melted the inside bottom of the case........BB
#1566
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
The rctech site went down on me about 10 mins ago...A warning pop up said the site could not open...I checked other sites and they were working fine eliminating my connection as the culprit...I just had finished up a nice sized post that inluded my experiences and inquiries of the day....Thing is, i'm tired from the long yet satisfying and rewarding day..I Will muster up the strength to repost at another time...As I am gonna hit the sack..Instead of counting sheep I may be counting Sc10 4wd's...What a day!As a dorky burnout one said in a classic pinoneering for it's time comedy;
"Check ya laterzzzz"
"Check ya laterzzzz"
#1568
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
Three of us here at Track Star ran Tekin RS Pro's all last year in our Jammin trucks with 550 and 540 motors.
The 4.5 & 5.5 550's would run about 130 with the ESC at 140-150.
The 7.5 & 8.5 540's would run about 160-180 with the ESC at 120.
The same is true now with the SC10 4X4.
The 4.5 & 5.5 550's would run about 130 with the ESC at 140-150.
The 7.5 & 8.5 540's would run about 160-180 with the ESC at 120.
The same is true now with the SC10 4X4.
#1569
Tech Rookie
I have the shocks mounted on the middle hole of the shock towers and the inside a-arms from the instructions. Did you use the outside holes in the a-arms or the shock tower or both? thanks for the info. (and I have the boots on)
#1570
#1572
Super Moderator
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
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Nothing, well not nothing. Leave the chassis screw that holds the rear plate by the end of the motor out so you can flex the plate out of the way as you "snap" the motor in. The chassis is really close to the end of the motor, probly touches it, but I didn't grind anything to make mine fit. Geared 13/62.
#1574
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
I couldn't wait for the Associated sway bars so I added my own. Jammin CRT.5 hardware and homemade bars using K&S music wire. I made them in 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm sizes. This should help handling on relatively flat high grip tracks and in high speed turns.
Front and rear sets.
Front
Rear
Linkage detail.
Front and rear sets.
Front
Rear
Linkage detail.
#1575
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (11)
Anyone else notice that instead of moving the ballstud, swap the tie rod and the camber link? When I built it by the book, I had alot of camber and the toe was way off. Checked the book several times and was built right, and then decided to swap the two. Fixed both issues. Maybe a a misprint?