SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
thanks.
to start with the stock setup with the following changes (this is for carpet track, very small and tight).
- 10K up front, 5K rear
- yellow springs all around
- Clutch basket (will have to see how it is configured when it comes in)
- Yellow sway bars all around
- Chassis brace (or, if it comes in on in time, the exotek chassis)
- Configured with RPM a-arms all around
Are there any other changes that are pretty much a given when running on a high traction smooth surface?
to start with the stock setup with the following changes (this is for carpet track, very small and tight).
- 10K up front, 5K rear
- yellow springs all around
- Clutch basket (will have to see how it is configured when it comes in)
- Yellow sway bars all around
- Chassis brace (or, if it comes in on in time, the exotek chassis)
- Configured with RPM a-arms all around
Are there any other changes that are pretty much a given when running on a high traction smooth surface?
Last edited by Cain; 01-22-2012 at 03:42 PM.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Thanks for the quick reply Guys...
Actually, I too was under the impression that the Pinned Shaft would work with the MTK Clutch Basket? At least that is what I remember people on here running a few month back... Could MTK also chime in on this?
A few things I forgot to ask... seems like from the last few pages I have read... people have gone down with their diff oil in the front... 30K was the Front Diff Oil set-up from what I remember? Is this still used for big outdoor tracks and the low Diff Oils are for carpet racing? Thanks for the 20K tip jamr1130! Also, are either of the Underdrive or Overdrive pulleys recommended with the Pinned Shaft & Clutch Basket combo? Any suggestions on tension?
Sorry for all the questions... doing an extensive rebuild and want to get as much right as possible before finally hitting the track after a long hiatus.
Thanks once again for any assistance anyone can share!
Actually, I too was under the impression that the Pinned Shaft would work with the MTK Clutch Basket? At least that is what I remember people on here running a few month back... Could MTK also chime in on this?
A few things I forgot to ask... seems like from the last few pages I have read... people have gone down with their diff oil in the front... 30K was the Front Diff Oil set-up from what I remember? Is this still used for big outdoor tracks and the low Diff Oils are for carpet racing? Thanks for the 20K tip jamr1130! Also, are either of the Underdrive or Overdrive pulleys recommended with the Pinned Shaft & Clutch Basket combo? Any suggestions on tension?
Sorry for all the questions... doing an extensive rebuild and want to get as much right as possible before finally hitting the track after a long hiatus.
Thanks once again for any assistance anyone can share!
The diff wt in the front help with the power on turning, if you are going pinned use a lighter wt oil 5-10k, basket go with 30-60k. Carpet needs a lower wt since there is do much more grip and the truck doesnt need help power on turning.
The pulleys are preference, over drive (19R-20F) will pull the front end like a true 4wd (which also allows you to run a lower F diff oil) and have a more "point and shot" feeling. A 20-20 pulley setup is common and allows more top speed. A 20R-19F makes the front gain speed quicker (more torque) and can help the front pull a short bit coming out of a tight corner, it gives the truck a looser rear feeling. Nobody runs a 19-19 setup, but it would help low end torque.
As for belt tension, start with factory settings. and then tighten it a bit once it stretches. If your belt is too tight it binds, and I found that the front will flip itself and run on top of the tension pulley. My belt has stretched a good bit now and I'm running a 3-3 setting or a 2R-4F. The loser the belt is the better it works, to the point of slipping. I use to run go karts and we ran the chains the same way, loose until the point the would come off, there was even a guard we used to help keep the chain on when it should of fallen off. I cant remember to true reason why a looser setting helped, but I think it had to do with the pulling side did all the work while the other did nothing. If you take the belt tunnel off the truck you will see that the bottom is tight while the top flops.
i just bought a sc10 sct a few hours ago. need to find a good servo for it.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Steering Issue?
When I built my truck's steering rack, I did it to spec, however I have to run the right turn buckle out about 4mm more than the left in order to get my steering centered. I've rebuilt it several times, and I know my steering trim is at 0. When I set my steering I put camber at 0 and use the area behind the arm where it meets the chassis to measure it from. I then measure each side to make them the same, I start this with the buckle at its shortest. Once I get them the same I then set my toe, then my camber, and finally recheck toe. When I do this the truck travels straight.
Does anyone else have to turn one turn buckle more then the other? Or, is my method of setting it flawed?
Does anyone else have to turn one turn buckle more then the other? Or, is my method of setting it flawed?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
When I built my truck's steering rack, I did it to spec, however I have to run the right turn buckle out about 4mm more than the left in order to get my steering centered. I've rebuilt it several times, and I know my steering trim is at 0. When I set my steering I put camber at 0 and use the area behind the arm where it meets the chassis to measure it from. I then measure each side to make them the same, I start this with the buckle at its shortest. Once I get them the same I then set my toe, then my camber, and finally recheck toe. When I do this the truck travels straight.
Does anyone else have to turn one turn buckle more then the other? Or, is my method of setting it flawed?
Does anyone else have to turn one turn buckle more then the other? Or, is my method of setting it flawed?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Once you set your servo horn on the servo as close to straight as possible use sub trim on your radio to get the steering rack centered. Use the hole in the upper deck above the servo saver arm and drop a 2mm driver in it. Use sub trim until it lines up with the ball stud and then worry about the turnbuckle left and right lengths.
Ran my truck again today and only changed one thing. I used the weight setup Coyote used with the lead weight in the slots on the chassis. What a HUGE difference it made. I race with mostly losi's and need to really push my truck hard so adding the weight diffentaly helped. I had some traction issue's untill I added the weight.
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Ran my truck again today and only changed one thing. I used the weight setup Coyote used with the lead weight in the slots on the chassis. What a HUGE difference it made. I race with mostly losi's and need to really push my truck hard so adding the weight diffentaly helped. I had some traction issue's untill I added the weight.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
imagine how much better it will be with the exotech now.
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...10-thread.html
The recommended servos however are good.