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Old 01-21-2012, 11:17 AM
  #15436  
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Originally Posted by Cain
for your exotek saddle setup, what parts did you need exactly to do that and did you have to modify the chassis in any way?
You don't have to modify the chassis, just the b44.1 brackets.
pm your email to me ill send u some pics
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:48 AM
  #15437  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
30K is too much up front. Going up into higher diff weight in the front is to increase understeer, and I would expect exactly what you have described by running that thick up front.
Ever driven a sedan with a front diff, and then tightened it way up? Or a one way, and then switched to a spool? Same thing as heavier fluid. More steering center in, pushes center off. This is why the Ryan's setup sheet from the Reedy Race/Spectrum race has the front overdriven, it adds on power steering.

I had 60K in the front and thought it was way better than the 30K I have in it now, but some users reported breaking front driveline parts as a result of too little diff action.
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:53 AM
  #15438  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Ever driven a sedan with a front diff, and then tightened it way up? Or a one way, and then switched to a spool? Same thing as heavier fluid. More steering center in, pushes center off. This is why the Ryan's setup sheet from the Reedy Race/Spectrum race has the front overdriven, it adds on power steering.

I had 60K in the front and thought it was way better than the 30K I have in it now, but some users reported breaking front driveline parts as a result of too little diff action.
I've run 50k front and 30k rear with good results for me and havent broken anything. Been like that all year. Just saying if anyone wants to try it and is affraid.

But going to go bsck to 7k f and 5k r once I get the rcshox center diff in.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:02 PM
  #15439  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Ever driven a sedan with a front diff, and then tightened it way up? Or a one way, and then switched to a spool? Same thing as heavier fluid. More steering center in, pushes center off. This is why the Ryan's setup sheet from the Reedy Race/Spectrum race has the front overdriven, it adds on power steering.

I had 60K in the front and thought it was way better than the 30K I have in it now, but some users reported breaking front driveline parts as a result of too little diff action.
I know Codys set-up did not use the overdrive ...
Your correct about the thicker diff oil though , thus why no overdrive ...

10K in ft ...

7k in back
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:17 PM
  #15440  
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Default my Sc10 4x4

[IMG][IMG]dscn1531.jpg[/IMG][/IMG]




my race rig ready for action
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
I have a set and they fit the stock arms prefect. I like to run a small amount of grease on the CV joints and these really help keep the dirt and dust off the shock and out of my greasy CV's.
hello...hope all is well buddy...
do you have a setup sheet?? and your Belt Tension position? Thanks

ps maybe post some more pictures????

thanks

Last edited by IRM616; 01-21-2012 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:25 PM
  #15442  
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I am taking my truck apart to refill the diffs and check warped a arms etc, when I noticed this? I am running the basket, with 1 HD pad on the inside and 2 standard pads in the basket. Also the the pads are super slick there is no grip on the pads at all. My slipper nut I am not running flush because it seems if I do the spring is almost all the way cranked down. Any tips?

Here is a link to the pic of the spur gear:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture051.jpg
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
I have a set and they fit the stock arms prefect. I like to run a small amount of grease on the CV joints and these really help keep the dirt and dust off the shock and out of my greasy CV's.
ANd if you perfer a drier cv lubricant you can use what I use. Graphite powder.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:42 PM
  #15444  
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Originally Posted by Cain
what is your full setup for carpet?

Also are you using a clutch basket?



For you guys using clutch baskets, what are you using for diff fluids?
Yes, but to be hounest, i used 48P erlier bvefore, and no problem...but now on 32P and 58/19..maybe is a need.'

20K front
3K rear

middle on all four corners tower

Outer front arm
Inner rear arm

Middle rear hub, inner on link
Short link front

3/3 toe/AS block

1.2 pistons..on all 4 corners
35w AE front
30w AE rar

Yellow swaybar front rear
Yellow ssprings front rear

lipo IB5600 50C middle..
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:28 PM
  #15445  
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hey guys anyone know the weight of the exotek aluminium chassis by itself? just trying to do a weight comparison between that and stock plastic center chassis.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:38 PM
  #15446  
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Here are a couple pics of my rebuild using a new kit.


no weight needed to balance. Bias is 45% front 55% rear. 50-50 left to right. Total weight ready to race is 6.45lbs. The carbon fiber eliminates torsional twist. It's extremely hard to traction roll and even when it does you can tell it's going over and let off on the power a touch to settle it back down. I think keeping as much weight on the center line as possible is the key. I think that's why saddle packs in line are working better than side by side. Add a ball diff from Marcus and it's a tough truck to beat

Last edited by SCTDan; 01-21-2012 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:40 PM
  #15447  
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How did you cut the top plate?
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:58 PM
  #15448  
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
hey guys anyone know the weight of the exotek aluminium chassis by itself? just trying to do a weight comparison between that and stock plastic center chassis.
5oz., thats what i was told when i bought my exotek chassis
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
How did you cut the top plate?
I use a power sliding miter saw with a metal cutting blade. Makes nice clean cuts.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:55 PM
  #15450  
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Originally Posted by IRM616
5oz., thats what i was told when i bought my exotek chassis
ok cool im just trying to get my total weight close to that.
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