5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-19-2011, 05:29 AM
#1532
05-19-2011, 06:25 AM
#1536
I finally got mine last night. Built it at the track, took about 5 hours including electronics.
Had to fill the diffs, rebuilt the shocks with 35 wt all around. I didn't realize the front and rear shocks were different sizes (they are very close), and put the fronts on the back and the backs on the front.
Even with the belt tensioners set loose all the way the belt is quite tight. I will take another look at it on the weekend to see if I messed it up somewhere, but the transmissions ran nice and smooth before I put the belt on.
The only diff fluid they had at the track was 2000wt so I put that in. The track is a smallish indoor carpet track, so hopefully that oil wont be too bad.
I picked up the Castle SCT combo with the 1410 3800Kv motor for now. Anybody use that speedo in their trucks? I hope it doesn't fry on me. I'm waiting for the Viper 10R/550 combo. I may run the 10R with a Viper 8.5 540, but not sure yet. I really wish the Viper ESCs would work with sensorless motors as that Castle 1410 seems to be the cat's meow. Should I use 32p or 48p with this? I have pinions for both.
One of the CVAs is binding a bit with itself. I'm hoping that after a couple runs it will work itself loose but I'll have to double check that.
The pre-built steering spindle and caster block were also binding. I took them apart and shaved down the bottom of the caster block about 0.5mm with an x-acto knife. That freed it up a lot. I will sand is down a bit better later to make it even smoother.
I lost one of the hex pins when I was putting the front wheels on. I put the wheel on, then lifted up the truck to put the nut on. The tire fell off with the hex attached to it and the pin fell out. I have some spare FT hex pins from my B4, hopefully they will fit (I didn't have them with me at the track).
I really don't like how they make so many of nuts fit into a molded spot. Specifically, the nuts on the shock towers and rear hub carriers. There really is no need for this and will most likely turn out to be a pain later on.
I had a somewhat hard time getting the rear arm mount (bottom of page 20) on. I felt like I really had to squeeze the inner hinge pins together to get them into the holes.
What's the deal with the way the shocks are attached to the arms? I have never seen anything like that before. Why have to deal with a ping and a screw? I have been screwing shocks into a-arms for 25 years and never had a problem with it.
I didn't use the receiver box. I mounted the receiver where the transponder is supposed to go. I'll figure out where I'll put the transponder this weekend. The one I have doesn't have any ears on it.
Had to fill the diffs, rebuilt the shocks with 35 wt all around. I didn't realize the front and rear shocks were different sizes (they are very close), and put the fronts on the back and the backs on the front.
Even with the belt tensioners set loose all the way the belt is quite tight. I will take another look at it on the weekend to see if I messed it up somewhere, but the transmissions ran nice and smooth before I put the belt on.
The only diff fluid they had at the track was 2000wt so I put that in. The track is a smallish indoor carpet track, so hopefully that oil wont be too bad.
I picked up the Castle SCT combo with the 1410 3800Kv motor for now. Anybody use that speedo in their trucks? I hope it doesn't fry on me. I'm waiting for the Viper 10R/550 combo. I may run the 10R with a Viper 8.5 540, but not sure yet. I really wish the Viper ESCs would work with sensorless motors as that Castle 1410 seems to be the cat's meow. Should I use 32p or 48p with this? I have pinions for both.
One of the CVAs is binding a bit with itself. I'm hoping that after a couple runs it will work itself loose but I'll have to double check that.
The pre-built steering spindle and caster block were also binding. I took them apart and shaved down the bottom of the caster block about 0.5mm with an x-acto knife. That freed it up a lot. I will sand is down a bit better later to make it even smoother.
I lost one of the hex pins when I was putting the front wheels on. I put the wheel on, then lifted up the truck to put the nut on. The tire fell off with the hex attached to it and the pin fell out. I have some spare FT hex pins from my B4, hopefully they will fit (I didn't have them with me at the track).
I really don't like how they make so many of nuts fit into a molded spot. Specifically, the nuts on the shock towers and rear hub carriers. There really is no need for this and will most likely turn out to be a pain later on.
I had a somewhat hard time getting the rear arm mount (bottom of page 20) on. I felt like I really had to squeeze the inner hinge pins together to get them into the holes.
What's the deal with the way the shocks are attached to the arms? I have never seen anything like that before. Why have to deal with a ping and a screw? I have been screwing shocks into a-arms for 25 years and never had a problem with it.
I didn't use the receiver box. I mounted the receiver where the transponder is supposed to go. I'll figure out where I'll put the transponder this weekend. The one I have doesn't have any ears on it.
05-19-2011, 07:00 AM
#1540
Kool Video!!....Nice handling too...
....Sweet Truck!!
....Sweet Truck!!
05-19-2011, 07:13 AM
#1541
I finally got mine last night. Built it at the track, took about 5 hours including electronics.
Had to fill the diffs, rebuilt the shocks with 35 wt all around. I didn't realize the front and rear shocks were different sizes (they are very close), and put the fronts on the back and the backs on the front.
Even with the belt tensioners set loose all the way the belt is quite tight. I will take another look at it on the weekend to see if I messed it up somewhere, but the transmissions ran nice and smooth before I put the belt on.
The only diff fluid they had at the track was 2000wt so I put that in. The track is a smallish indoor carpet track, so hopefully that oil wont be too bad.
I picked up the Castle SCT combo with the 1410 3800Kv motor for now. Anybody use that speedo in their trucks? I hope it doesn't fry on me. I'm waiting for the Viper 10R/550 combo. I may run the 10R with a Viper 8.5 540, but not sure yet. I really wish the Viper ESCs would work with sensorless motors as that Castle 1410 seems to be the cat's meow. Should I use 32p or 48p with this? I have pinions for both.
One of the CVAs is binding a bit with itself. I'm hoping that after a couple runs it will work itself loose but I'll have to double check that.
The pre-built steering spindle and caster block were also binding. I took them apart and shaved down the bottom of the caster block about 0.5mm with an x-acto knife. That freed it up a lot. I will sand is down a bit better later to make it even smoother.
I lost one of the hex pins when I was putting the front wheels on. I put the wheel on, then lifted up the truck to put the nut on. The tire fell off with the hex attached to it and the pin fell out. I have some spare FT hex pins from my B4, hopefully they will fit (I didn't have them with me at the track).
I really don't like how they make so many of nuts fit into a molded spot. Specifically, the nuts on the shock towers and rear hub carriers. There really is no need for this and will most likely turn out to be a pain later on.
I had a somewhat hard time getting the rear arm mount (bottom of page 20) on. I felt like I really had to squeeze the inner hinge pins together to get them into the holes.
What's the deal with the way the shocks are attached to the arms? I have never seen anything like that before. Why have to deal with a ping and a screw? I have been screwing shocks into a-arms for 25 years and never had a problem with it.
I didn't use the receiver box. I mounted the receiver where the transponder is supposed to go. I'll figure out where I'll put the transponder this weekend. The one I have doesn't have any ears on it.
Had to fill the diffs, rebuilt the shocks with 35 wt all around. I didn't realize the front and rear shocks were different sizes (they are very close), and put the fronts on the back and the backs on the front.
Even with the belt tensioners set loose all the way the belt is quite tight. I will take another look at it on the weekend to see if I messed it up somewhere, but the transmissions ran nice and smooth before I put the belt on.
The only diff fluid they had at the track was 2000wt so I put that in. The track is a smallish indoor carpet track, so hopefully that oil wont be too bad.
I picked up the Castle SCT combo with the 1410 3800Kv motor for now. Anybody use that speedo in their trucks? I hope it doesn't fry on me. I'm waiting for the Viper 10R/550 combo. I may run the 10R with a Viper 8.5 540, but not sure yet. I really wish the Viper ESCs would work with sensorless motors as that Castle 1410 seems to be the cat's meow. Should I use 32p or 48p with this? I have pinions for both.
One of the CVAs is binding a bit with itself. I'm hoping that after a couple runs it will work itself loose but I'll have to double check that.
The pre-built steering spindle and caster block were also binding. I took them apart and shaved down the bottom of the caster block about 0.5mm with an x-acto knife. That freed it up a lot. I will sand is down a bit better later to make it even smoother.
I lost one of the hex pins when I was putting the front wheels on. I put the wheel on, then lifted up the truck to put the nut on. The tire fell off with the hex attached to it and the pin fell out. I have some spare FT hex pins from my B4, hopefully they will fit (I didn't have them with me at the track).
I really don't like how they make so many of nuts fit into a molded spot. Specifically, the nuts on the shock towers and rear hub carriers. There really is no need for this and will most likely turn out to be a pain later on.
I had a somewhat hard time getting the rear arm mount (bottom of page 20) on. I felt like I really had to squeeze the inner hinge pins together to get them into the holes.
What's the deal with the way the shocks are attached to the arms? I have never seen anything like that before. Why have to deal with a ping and a screw? I have been screwing shocks into a-arms for 25 years and never had a problem with it.
I didn't use the receiver box. I mounted the receiver where the transponder is supposed to go. I'll figure out where I'll put the transponder this weekend. The one I have doesn't have any ears on it.
also one of my cva's was a little stiff too when I had it in my hand but once i installed it and i drove the car it loosened right up .Rick
05-19-2011, 07:37 AM
#1544
p.s. i got brave yesterday and even ran it on 3s for about 7-10 minutes alotta fun and quite fast but i dont think im gonna do it too often ..lol.
05-19-2011, 07:53 AM
#1545
Originally Posted by CraigV;
What's the deal with the way the shocks are attached to the arms? I have never seen anything like that before. Why have to deal with a ping and a screw? I have been screwing shocks into a-arms for 25 years and never had a problem with it.
I didn't use the receiver box. I mounted the receiver where the transponder is supposed to go. I'll figure out where I'll put the transponder this weekend. The one I have doesn't have any ears on it.
