Nick@Jet

iTrader: (17)

Thx Casper - 95 degrease here in IN, I've tried
no drag Brake, but then it seams hitting the brake
with my finger is too much and slides the nose, then pushes
on entry too much. Min brake 8, max 70, if I turn down
max then I can't do a quick whip around if I need to.
Drag brake seams like a crutch, so if I just need to
Learn without it I will, but then I go from just making a main
to mid B. whatever the case I value ur opinion

A929ryda

iTrader: (16)

I run the FTW carbon mount with fan. The fan blows like crazy keeps my temps way down (130 after a full pack). I had a simular issue with the solder tabs clearing the fan mount. It made it a pain to remove the motor. I turn the motor so the tabs are facing either the outside or towards the inside (drive shaft). I perfer the outside just to make sure the wires don't touch the dirve shaft.

BLKNOTCH

iTrader: (10)

For starters I would say you are running to much motor, get yourself a 4000kv Pro4 and I am sure you will be much happier and the temps will be in the normal range.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

I don't think calling FlySky a phenomenal product for the price, nor owning four of their transmitters is hating, but I hear you (even if you don't heed your own advice and read). Discussion over.

Mxer59

iTrader: (114)

Is the 4000kv good in this truck? Sorry for the question just curious as its weighs more then the other sc trucks

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

The 4000 hobbywing is probably just as good and way cheaper price.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

What are you running in your center diff? If not 7k fluid, maybe try that to get the 4WD action more locked in and maybe reduce some of the wheelspin, thus reduce heat.

But, it sounds like you have a lot of heat buildup from braking: ie: high drag and high max brake.

When I had the 4600 I think I did min brake 50, and then worked with my EPA to fine tune (to reduce it as needed).

Are you coming into the turns really hot and doing a lot of late braking? Sounds like you're coming in fast, brake, turn, and rocket to the next turn - rinse and repeat. If so that'll eat up lots of energy and create heat. If that sounds like how you're running, and if the changes and the fan don't help, try a little slower entry into turns. Carry the speed thru, then accelerate out so that you hit the next straight with more initial speed.

Whitey_Wangster

Question, suspension was stiff in the rear. I reamed a-arms loosened nuts on carriers and the suspensions drops with no resistance. But, when I put the rear sway bar on it seems to slow the suspension movement down expecially when I tighten the two set screws that hold the sway bar to the rear gear box. Is this how it is supposed to wok or am I adjusting the sway bar wrong? Thanks.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

There are four total screws that hold the bar to the transmission: two top, two bottom. Don't overtighten the set screws in the middle of the mounts. Tighten those just enough so that there's no slop, but not enough to inhibit the movement of the swaybar.

IE: if you disconnect the sways from your arms, then raise one side of the swaybar - the opposite side should lift with no resistance.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

No problem. If drag brakes help that much then use them. That is what they are there for.

Gearing should help with temps more then that but if you have a ton of wheel spin this will cause extra heat and gearing will typically not fix wheel spin and gearing down can even make it worse. CL should help some. Driving styles can play a part in motor temps which is why I keep going back to CL.

The motor will run at 200 no problem but it should not need to run that hot. Check to make sure you gear mesh is good and your drive train runs smooth without the motor attached.

oldschoolnewb

I was having that problem also. The brakes would over brake on me. The solution was to get a higher end transmitter. I was running a Flysky when I first got the truck because it was cheap. I switched over to the reasonably priced Airtronics Mx-3x. The ability to dial in the exponential on the brakes was critical. Same thing on the throttle. A good radio and a careful study of the users manual for it will make you an instantly better driver. It did for me.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

Another thing to try also if you want to stop from using drag brake if it helps that much with the heat but you like the way it turns in, try reducing your brake force on yer remote or esc if it has a setting, my Hw SCT Pro has a MAX BRAKE FORCE and i have that at 50% on the esc(stock setting) but can also change the force even more within my spektrum remote but you can also blip the throttle real quick to help with the quick whip

Nick@Jet

iTrader: (17)

Thanks everyone for the help
- FTW fan - move motor, I installed with motor in and actually don't have hooked up yet since it comes with wrong plug , so yikes
- point and shoot - yes that would nail my driving style for the 4wd, not so much 2wd, so yes my trigger finger may be causing
- my radio is the old JR but Losi name on it, can set end points , but radio in my future
- go away from 4600, no way I like it too much, but thanks for you other advice
- drag brake I know is a crutch and will address that , I should be able to drive without, just newbie on the controls
- running 5,5,3, was running leaked out mush n the front and it actually turned better,,rebuilt and filled with 5 and turn actually decreased
- I'm sure my trigger finger and driving style worth 20 degrees, I'll pull the pinion and check rolling resistance which isn't bad, but proly time to upgrade all bearings anyway.
Thanks again

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Check your bearings and the single biggest heat bandit with these things is braking. Lower drag brake to an acceptable value and then ALWAYS adjust your brake EPA for each track to as low as is needed. I usually do this at the end of the straight where I need the most braking and go down as much as possible. For example, currently, the brake on my ESC is set at 50% and on my radio, its at only 70% of that...

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

You have a few options here. I helped Matt Olson with this a bit over the weekend. You can use some foam to space the fan and tabs to keep them from touching. OR you can clock the front endbell to move the solder tabs out of the way of the fan and mount. This will change the solder tab position in the car.