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Old 07-17-2012, 11:11 AM
  #37126  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Yeah well i just looked and mine does have the sticker. Funny how spektrum is the weaker signal, says something about the brand. You guys keep running your expensive radios and keep blaming me for your crashes.
If the FCC regulates a certain level then yeah it is a weaker signal. If your knock off brand does not follow the rules then it could over power. Just saying read the whole thing before you comment!
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:15 AM
  #37127  
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Originally Posted by Casper
If the FCC regulates a certain level then yeah it is a weaker signal. If your knock off brand does not follow the rules then it could over power. Just saying read the whole thing before you comment!
Spektrum has one of the most outdated frequency hopping systems out there. Funny how they only have problems and no other brands like ko propo, futaba, and airtronics.
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Spektrum has one of the most outdated frequency hopping systems out there. Funny how they only have problems and no other brands like ko propo, futaba, and airtronics.
I have yet to have a problem with my spektrum system getting interference but it can happen I suppose. Spektrum was a pioneer with these systems and continues to produce top quality race winning systems trusted by some of the top drivers in the world.
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:24 AM
  #37129  
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Originally Posted by Casper
I have yet to have a problem with my spektrum system getting interference but it can happen I suppose. Spektrum was a pioneer with these systems and continues to produce top quality race winning systems trusted by some of the top drivers in the world.
Let's just stop this subject right here as it's going nowhere and so i can stop being the thread a-hole on radios. Different equipment works for different people. Let's just leave it at that and move on with the scte thread.
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:27 AM
  #37130  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Let's just stop this subject right here as it's going nowhere and so i can stop being the thread a-hole on radios. Different equipment works for different people. Let's just leave it at that and move on with the scte thread.
Agree. Sorry
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:37 AM
  #37131  
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hey casper what benefits would i see with grabbing the aluminum inserts for the rear diff housing case?
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:38 AM
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Good, so bak to my diff question...are the cup inserts the only thing to seal up other than the gasket of it causes issues? My pins and blocks looks good so I'll wait to do those but hopefully my HD outdrives will be in the mailbox tonight when I get home...
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Good, so bak to my diff question...are the cup inserts the only thing to seal up other than the gasket of it causes issues? My pins and blocks looks good so I'll wait to do those but hopefully my HD outdrives will be in the mailbox tonight when I get home...
I just put some high tack gasket sealant on my diff inserts. Works great with no leakages so far. I have the hd outdrives on all 3 diffs and it does get rid of alot of wobble and leaking problems. Don't know if it is true or not but the hd outdrives compared to the stockers seem slightly shorter on the oudrive shaft. Seemed like a nice tight fit when i put them in.
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by socal90
I took it apart and checked it all out, it seems like there is more slop in the arms than in the hinge pins. Do you think it's possible the hinge pin holes in the arms got stretched out??
I am going to order the pins and inserts anyway, just wondering what you thought about the arms.
Theres a sweet spot , whem new they need a lil reaming to frre them up from binding/ being to tight, use em for a good period of time , yes slop is most def gonna happen , i been getting my butt handed to me by a gd friend of mine too often so i tottaly rebuilt my whole car bearings n all everything except chassis n shock tower basically, next race i beat em in 2 quals then the main but he broke (dingo/china doll), any ways beat em all day basicaly, do parts wear? Yes they do!!!
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Funny how spektrum is the weaker signal, says something about the brand.
Conversely - how many batteries does your unit take? My kids' use 8 each. This was true for the pure analog versions, as well as the newer digital display type.

Spektrums use 4. Seems like something is going on if you need twice the battery power to operate a similar device.

Maybe the extra four are to power the onboard jamming dish array inside of your transmitter, or perhaps it's just inefficient design. You can decide.

That said, I think they're PHENOMINAL units for the price.
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Good, so bak to my diff question...are the cup inserts the only thing to seal up other than the gasket of it causes issues? My pins and blocks looks good so I'll wait to do those but hopefully my HD outdrives will be in the mailbox tonight when I get home...
That's really the only thing. I like to use Green Slime on the o-rings (behind the washer), and don't forget to grease up the outdrives. There is a groove/ring that's made to hold a bit of grease to help seal things up. I like to use Losi Black Grease there.

I had good luck with JB Weld for securing my diff inserts. Seems to have a dual role: Seals and dries hard and seems to reduce wobble over the RTV sealants other use. It also dries much slower than CA glue which others use, so it's easy to work with. I also keep a small tube of black RTV sealant in the toolbox to use if I don't have a new blue diff gasket handy for a rebuild.

Probably a bit overkill, but I've yet to have a problem.
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY
Theres a sweet spot , whem new they need a lil reaming to frre them up from binding/ being to tight, use em for a good period of time , yes slop is most def gonna happen , i been getting my butt handed to me by a gd friend of mine too often so i tottaly rebuilt my whole car bearings n all everything except chassis n shock tower basically, next race i beat em in 2 quals then the main but he broke (dingo/china doll), any ways beat em all day basicaly, do parts wear? Yes they do!!!
I ordered new arms, ti Nitride hinge pins, and inserts. I'll check out how tight they fit and ream them as little as possible if needed. Hopefully that will help get this bad boy dialed in. Even with the slop, I was 4 tenths off of the lap record for this layout, I'm hoping this will help make up a couple of tenths
Thanks for the help guys
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:51 PM
  #37138  
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Originally Posted by goehm
Conversely - how many batteries does your unit take? My kids' use 8 each. This was true for the pure analog versions, as well as the newer digital display type.

Spektrums use 4. Seems like something is going on if you need twice the battery power to operate a similar device.

Maybe the extra four are to power the onboard jamming dish array inside of your transmitter, or perhaps it's just inefficient design. You can decide.

That said, I think they're PHENOMINAL units for the price.
Wow did you even bother to read my post a few posts back. We're done with that subject. I hate spektrum and you can hate flysky. It really doesn't matter to me. If you wanna hate here's the thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ing-issue.html
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:47 PM
  #37139  
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Struggling with motor temps a little,
anyone ever use the FTW fan and carbon fiber mount
It is very close to the solder tabs on the Pro 4 Tekin
540 size. Also I can raise but it mounts over
The center diff which are counter sunk so need
To use some different hardware.

Also Casper, Ryan, Randy, Tyler and others I failed to
Mention, the amount of time and effort it takes to
Share ur knowledge and experience is VERY appreciated

Temps never below 175 and usually 185-190
Situation - small outdoor low bite offroad,
RX8 , Pro4 4600 or SCX4.5, , no timing , CL 80,
Drag Brake 12 ( I really like how it turns in),
Yes I spin the tires, hard not to when so much there
I've tried 12 to 15 / 40,
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick@Jet
Struggling with motor temps a little,
anyone ever use the FTW fan and carbon fiber mount
It is very close to the solder tabs on the Pro 4 Tekin
540 size. Also I can raise but it mounts over
The center diff which are counter sunk so need
To use some different hardware.

Also Casper, Ryan, Randy, Tyler and others I failed to
Mention, the amount of time and effort it takes to
Share ur knowledge and experience is VERY appreciated

Temps never below 175 and usually 185-190
Situation - small outdoor low bite offroad,
RX8 , Pro4 4600 or SCX4.5, , no timing , CL 80,
Drag Brake 12 ( I really like how it turns in),
Yes I spin the tires, hard not to when so much there
I've tried 12 to 15 / 40,
Drag brake will generate heat. I would run this as low as possible. Have you tried none? If you have wheel spin turn down the CL some more. Try 70 or even 60. Should improve lap times with better traction!

What is the ambient temp where you are racing?
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