9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
07-04-2012, 03:50 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
My SCTE should turn up tomorrow finally, got a quick question.
In my sc10 4x4 i was running my pro 4 with just a normal 5mm pinions, with the SCTE do i have to run the mod 1 pinions? what is the difference if they are the same number teeth?
I will be running the King headz chassis if that makes a difference?
Cheers
Rob
In my sc10 4x4 i was running my pro 4 with just a normal 5mm pinions, with the SCTE do i have to run the mod 1 pinions? what is the difference if they are the same number teeth?
I will be running the King headz chassis if that makes a difference?
Cheers
Rob
07-04-2012, 07:04 AM
After bending a stock front axle, I'm about to go on a shopping spree 
What does everyone think? Tekno center driveshafts, Tekno front shaft set (waiting on the rears for now since they seem to be good still), King Headz chassis, hardened diff shim set. The rest of the truck is stock and I mainly bash with this thing. So far it's taken a beating but I've bent the stock chassis, shock towers and a front drive axle. Figure I'll take care of the chassis and axles/driveshafts now and get the rest later. Oh I also went to take a turnbuckle off the knuckle with my hand and broke a turnbuckle in half LOL I don't want to spend $57 on titanium turnbuckles right now either so stock will do.
What does everyone think? Tekno center driveshafts, Tekno front shaft set (waiting on the rears for now since they seem to be good still), King Headz chassis, hardened diff shim set. The rest of the truck is stock and I mainly bash with this thing. So far it's taken a beating but I've bent the stock chassis, shock towers and a front drive axle. Figure I'll take care of the chassis and axles/driveshafts now and get the rest later. Oh I also went to take a turnbuckle off the knuckle with my hand and broke a turnbuckle in half LOL I don't want to spend $57 on titanium turnbuckles right now either so stock will do.
07-04-2012, 07:22 AM
After bending a stock front axle, I'm about to go on a shopping spree What does everyone think? Tekno center driveshafts, Tekno front shaft set (waiting on the rears for now since they seem to be good still), King Headz chassis, hardened diff shim set. The rest of the truck is stock and I mainly bash with this thing. So far it's taken a beating but I've bent the stock chassis, shock towers and a front drive axle. Figure I'll take care of the chassis and axles/driveshafts now and get the rest later. Oh I also went to take a turnbuckle off the knuckle with my hand and broke a turnbuckle in half LOL I don't want to spend $57 on titanium turnbuckles right now either so stock will do.
What does everyone think? Tekno center driveshafts, Tekno front shaft set (waiting on the rears for now since they seem to be good still), King Headz chassis, hardened diff shim set. The rest of the truck is stock and I mainly bash with this thing. So far it's taken a beating but I've bent the stock chassis, shock towers and a front drive axle. Figure I'll take care of the chassis and axles/driveshafts now and get the rest later. Oh I also went to take a turnbuckle off the knuckle with my hand and broke a turnbuckle in half LOL I don't want to spend $57 on titanium turnbuckles right now either so stock will do.Stock turnbuckles are fine, but since all you do is bash maybe snag a set of the 8ight 2.0 turnbuckles off ebay and ends and mod them on the scte. I've seen this on a few and it doesn't look like it would take much and they are bigger (guys did have the carbon towers that I saw them on).
I've never owned the KH chassis while it looks great it doesn't appear look as durable as the bump or bce chassis (which I have had both of). Again that is an observation from looking at pictures of the KH chassis, not seeing it first hand. Maybe someone else has had both or all three hat can speak to that. PS my vote for best chassis is bump w/ the long brace, but all I do is race mine.
07-04-2012, 07:35 AM
I have owned the TLR chassis (which is good) as well as the KH's chassis and KH's chassis is top notch. No offense but you can not tell how good a chassis is built by just looking at it. All my buddies I race with use the KH's chassis and we are all very happy with it. For our local area here in Northern Indiana and lower Michigan we are all very competitive with it.
07-04-2012, 07:41 AM
I have owned the TLR chassis (which is good) as well as the KH's chassis and KH's chassis is top notch. No offense but you can not tell how good a chassis is built by just looking at it. All my buddies I race with use the KH's chassis and we are all very happy with it. For our local area here in Northern Indiana and lower Michigan we are all very competitive with it.
btw none of these comments have to do with racing performance... he is a basher, it was about durability
Last edited by 8ight-e; 07-04-2012 at 08:30 AM.
07-04-2012, 07:48 AM
I have owned the TLR chassis (which is good) as well as the KH's chassis and KH's chassis is top notch. No offense but you can not tell how good a chassis is built by just looking at it. All my buddies I race with use the KH's chassis and we are all very happy with it. For our local area here in Northern Indiana and lower Michigan we are all very competitive with it.
07-04-2012, 09:11 AM
Hello everyong, I got my hands on a used scte and I wondering if there is anything I should look out for before I take this bad boy out. I'm going to change the fluids in the diffs and check the gears in the diffs and change the shock oil out. Is putting the blelder shock caps on this thing worth it ? I would rather not run bladder shocks so I'm asking for opinons on switching them over. Let me know if there is anything in pacticular I should check before taking this thing out to the track. Thanks
07-04-2012, 09:47 AM
Duly noted but rather than have 2 trucks with moderate parts, I'd rather have 1 truck with high end parts. At which point do you stop buying rollers to "save money"?
That's great info! I was mainly looking at replacing the axles on the front or rear but then I got to thinking about how my front shaft is probably toast and I better replace that. But if I replaced the front center shaft, I want the KH chassis because that eases the angle of the front center shaft so I won't tear up the good Tekno shaft. Ugh, never ending process!
I don't have all the tekno parts, but I did snag the front center shaft and it's a VERY nice part, if the rest are as good of quality... which they appear to be they have my vote.
Stock turnbuckles are fine, but since all you do is bash maybe snag a set of the 8ight 2.0 turnbuckles off ebay and ends and mod them on the scte. I've seen this on a few and it doesn't look like it would take much and they are bigger (guys did have the carbon towers that I saw them on).
I've never owned the KH chassis while it looks great it doesn't appear look as durable as the bump or bce chassis (which I have had both of). Again that is an observation from looking at pictures of the KH chassis, not seeing it first hand. Maybe someone else has had both or all three hat can speak to that. PS my vote for best chassis is bump w/ the long brace, but all I do is race mine.
Stock turnbuckles are fine, but since all you do is bash maybe snag a set of the 8ight 2.0 turnbuckles off ebay and ends and mod them on the scte. I've seen this on a few and it doesn't look like it would take much and they are bigger (guys did have the carbon towers that I saw them on).
I've never owned the KH chassis while it looks great it doesn't appear look as durable as the bump or bce chassis (which I have had both of). Again that is an observation from looking at pictures of the KH chassis, not seeing it first hand. Maybe someone else has had both or all three hat can speak to that. PS my vote for best chassis is bump w/ the long brace, but all I do is race mine.
07-04-2012, 09:58 AM
Tech Apprentice
Looking to get a motor heat sink do you guys have any recommendations I run a Viper copperhead 5150 I don't have any problems with over heating but live in Florida and it gets pretty hot outside and rather be safe then sorry just want to make sure I get something thats not going to interfere with rear cntr drive shaft
Thanks Bob
Thanks Bob
07-04-2012, 11:48 AM
What's the best way to eliminate some of the slop on the rod ends and steering linkages? using dubro ends?
07-04-2012, 12:14 PM
anyone out there with the rear tekno driveshafts? I installed mine and when I crank the rear wheel nuts down, the rear hexes seem to bind with the carrier/bearings. I replaced the rear bearings and the problem is still there. If you spin one rear tire, the other tires does not spin at all because it is so bound up. Any ideas? The fronts and center driveshafts fit without any issue. Thanks.
07-04-2012, 12:55 PM
Hello everyong, I got my hands on a used scte and I wondering if there is anything I should look out for before I take this bad boy out. I'm going to change the fluids in the diffs and check the gears in the diffs and change the shock oil out. Is putting the blelder shock caps on this thing worth it ? I would rather not run bladder shocks so I'm asking for opinons on switching them over. Let me know if there is anything in pacticular I should check before taking this thing out to the track. Thanks
Get the hardened steering link balls that Losi sells. They tighten up the steering incredibly.
07-04-2012, 01:01 PM
ok, I am wanting to try this truck out again but some of my parts are old so I am trying to decide whether to update some of the parts...like a-arms, all the rod ends, and chassis..everything else would be pretty much new(especially all the TLR goodies, I bought them but never installed them
07-04-2012, 01:16 PM
anyone out there with the rear tekno driveshafts? I installed mine and when I crank the rear wheel nuts down, the rear hexes seem to bind with the carrier/bearings. I replaced the rear bearings and the problem is still there. If you spin one rear tire, the other tires does not spin at all because it is so bound up. Any ideas? The fronts and center driveshafts fit without any issue. Thanks.
.... so it seems to be a case to case issue. To fix the problem he brought back the shoulder of the axle about .0010. This would be the flat part that meets the bearing towards the inside of the car. Hope this helps.
07-04-2012, 01:22 PM
I'm using them right now and I personally didn't have an issue with them but our engineer (Brandon) had his bind up for some reason .... so it seems to be a case to case issue. To fix the problem he brought back the shoulder of the axle about .0010. This would be the flat part that meets the bearing towards the inside of the car. Hope this helps.
.... so it seems to be a case to case issue. To fix the problem he brought back the shoulder of the axle about .0010. This would be the flat part that meets the bearing towards the inside of the car. Hope this helps.