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Old 09-11-2011, 07:59 PM
  #19801  
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nano tech back in stock!!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html



lol at integra
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:12 PM
  #19802  
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Originally Posted by Casper
The entire rear bumper comes off with 4 screws!

I would guess you had an earlier generation rear bumper. They have been revised and are much stronger now.
Originally Posted by hacker07
I am sure you got one of the original bumpers...the other thing to try is the 3 screws on each side, tighten them and then back them off half a turn, it lets things flex more. Also, when purchasing a new one, find one of the updated units...i have posted pics on here a number of times with the updates.
The original was an AA version. The replacement was from amain so who knows. Looked the same to me.

Either way, taking the bumper off means the rear hinge pins are set loose and that's a pain if that's not what you wanted to work on. The bumper should have been designed to be removed without affecting the suspension so you can work on the car without removing those lower screws and then having to replace them in order to work on the rear end and have access to eveything you need.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:29 PM
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in an answer to my own question of pounds and force on a chassis. at 35 mph at 7 pounds hitting a jump crashing regardless of gravity it hits at a force of 64.48980815347721 Pounds. unless a turn marshal that falls on it. your never going to get to 160 pounds of force unless you hit a wall at 134 mph.. ( just a little information for someone standing on your toy )
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:05 PM
  #19804  
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Who's running AKA tires .....are you using red foams ..... what the parts number for just the foams
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:25 PM
  #19805  
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Originally Posted by Integra
Awesome, I love it when the Factory workers Decide its Not the Day to Include ALL the parts needed for my Kit.


I've been running it a Few weeks now with Stock Grease diffs and was dealing with the Ooozing of Grease from the Out drives till i had some actual run time on it. Well Turns out the reason for the Floppy Front Out drive would be, No Flippin bearing.

Thanks for the partially Blown front R+P and Front Diff case Losi.


Is it really that much to ask for a roller that actually Rolls.
I got one for you.. I was running my third qual at my track. after turn 1 we have a big jump. took the jump and when i landed broke my front spindle. come to find out they forgot one of the pins that held the hub to the spindle.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:47 PM
  #19806  
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Originally Posted by Moogumby
I got one for you.. I was running my third qual at my track. after turn 1 we have a big jump. took the jump and when i landed broke my front spindle. come to find out they forgot one of the pins that held the hub to the spindle.
Well, to this I have to say...its more likely that they forgot to fully tighten the setscrew holding one of the pins...although i have seen them work their way loose after a while. And you could contact Losi customer service and I am sure they would take care of you.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:50 PM
  #19807  
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Originally Posted by Integra
Awesome, I love it when the Factory workers Decide its Not the Day to Include ALL the parts needed for my Kit.


I've been running it a Few weeks now with Stock Grease diffs and was dealing with the Ooozing of Grease from the Out drives till i had some actual run time on it. Well Turns out the reason for the Floppy Front Out drive would be, No Flippin bearing.

Thanks for the partially Blown front R+P and Front Diff case Losi.


Is it really that much to ask for a roller that actually Rolls.
Well, something to consider is that the car would not move if there was a bearing missing on the front diff. It would have no front wheel drive as the ring and pinion would not mesh. It could have grenaded and disappeard that way.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:02 PM
  #19808  
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when will people understand that RTR doesn't mean you throw a battery in it and start thrashing. you should still go through the truck and make sure everything is in working order and lined up, screws tightened, make sure screws that go into metal (motor mount from bottom and top) are locktighted, etc.

Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
nano tech back in stock!!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html



lol at integra
thanks amigo. just picked up two more. did you ever get yours?
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:10 PM
  #19809  
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If for some reason I don't get a losi 4x4 what is another 4x4 that is pretty well complete and recommended by you losi guys?

Is the losi mm or inches thinking screw wise
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
If for some reason I don't get a losi 4x4 what is another 4x4 that is pretty well complete and recommended by you losi guys?

Is the losi mm or inches thinking screw wise
Std or inches
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:17 PM
  #19811  
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
If for some reason I don't get a losi 4x4 what is another 4x4 that is pretty well complete and recommended by you losi guys?

Is the losi mm or inches thinking screw wise
to be totally honest with you, there isn't another 4x4SC that i would run. all of the others have issues that i wouldn't want to deal with. i suppose if i ONLY ran on tight, indoor tracks, i might consider the SC10 4x4 (but probably not).

SC10 4x4: not easy to work on, slipper pads wear out, belt drive.
slash 4x4: just not really a race platform
durango: parts difficult to come by, durability isn't great, have to run saddle packs.
hyper/nexx: honestly don't know too much about these as nobody runs them around here. i have read that some of the durability issues that the early versions had have been addressed with the nexx.

it's not like 2wd SC where you can choose between kyosho, associated, losi, and maybe hpi, and be ok. the overall competitiveness and durability between all of the 2wd's is much closer than 4wd IMO. no losi fanboi here either. i have: B4, SC10, RC8Be, slash 4x4 and my SCTE.

to answer your question, the SCTE uses standard hardware (not metric).
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:21 PM
  #19812  
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Originally Posted by KIK
I had the same problem.... Clicked for 2 quals and DNF in 3rd. It's the internal gears in the rear diff. Hopefully this won't be an issue once the new gears come out.
Wasn't this fixed in the newer kits?

I have the diff removed and when turning the outdrives it spins smoothly. Still haven't taken apart the diff but on my last diff fluid change all the gears looked fine. Do I need to shim the gears closer?
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:24 PM
  #19813  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
when will people understand that RTR doesn't mean you throw a battery in it and start thrashing. you should still go through the truck and make sure everything is in working order and lined up, screws tightened, make sure screws that go into metal (motor mount from bottom and top) are locktighted, etc.



thanks amigo. just picked up two more. did you ever get yours?
Still waiting on mine, they have shipped. I ordered them the same night Mr.J posted them.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:28 PM
  #19814  
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Originally Posted by SaladFork
Still waiting on mine, they have shipped. I ordered them the same night Mr.J posted them.
the first one i ordered from them came in the standard 2 weeks. i'm hoping these two fall in line with that.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:32 PM
  #19815  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
nano tech back in stock!!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html



lol at integra
These batteries any good
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