Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
my original 2010 spec front tower delaminated after 2 months of driving. I didnt use superglue, BUT then I bought an alloy front tower that I removed the two outer holes on and Im very satisfied with that tower
I have been running my aluminum shock towers for quite some time now. They are a little bent up but nothing a hammer can't fix
They sure look great, I'm going to give the stock one a whirl, then I might order this they look great.
Yes it's a Hudy thing. Thats why Serpent and Hudy parted ways. I like my Durango, I just didn't like the reply I receive with the email from them. I might have taken it the wrong way. But I fill manufactures today should hold up some kind of satisfaction to customers. This is why Hudy would probably be last chose.
I just got my aluminum in the mail. Yes I was looking at that you are correct removing the top two holes from each side and trimming it down just under the holes might lighten it up to. The carbon fiber weight is 9grams the aluminum from v1 is 17grams. It might not make it down but it would help.
I have driven a few XB4s and I'd prefer the 410 any day. I brought another kit recently and quality seems to have gone backwards not to mention no more diff fluid or shock oil included in package nor grease.
The towers breaking could be a quality issue. Still likes the aggressive way it drives though!
The towers breaking could be a quality issue. Still likes the aggressive way it drives though!
I just got my aluminum in the mail. Yes I was looking at that you are correct removing the top two holes from each side and trimming it down just under the holes might lighten it up to. The carbon fiber weight is 9grams the aluminum from v1 is 17grams. It might not make it down but it would help.
Look guys I have been racing 1/8 scale nitro out doors big area, lots of flight If I brake something in 3 moths were weekend after weekend of running. Thats about it. I do test the pipes all the time also with my MBX6R. My track is closing down this weekend, it's the last race. I'm going to miss the last race the track is having. I had prior vacation plans that I don't want to brake do to disappointing grandson and family members. So I figured I would just do 1/10 scale electric. I have been running 22 buggy for 2 years. so I under stand keep control, but it's disappointing to brake like I did! I believe the CF parts are not of good materials. That is my complain. If the instructions call for sanding and gluing, I would have done it. I only glued. XB4 instructions say sanding and gluing. But even if I would have sanded them down, they would have broken anyways. It's like taking plywood take the ends and pull it apart at the shock mount hole. No stress noted on either side. Just clean pull apart CF. Thats what they should be call "JUST PULL APART CF". lol
Tech Fanatic
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Look guys I have been racing 1/8 scale nitro out doors big area, lots of flight If I brake something in 3 moths were weekend after weekend of running. Thats about it. I do test the pipes all the time also with my MBX6R. My track is closing down this weekend, it's the last race. I'm going to miss the last race the track is having. I had prior vacation plans that I don't want to brake do to disappointing grandson and family members. So I figured I would just do 1/10 scale electric. I have been running 22 buggy for 2 years. so I under stand keep control, but it's disappointing to brake like I did! I believe the CF parts are not of good materials. That is my complain. If the instructions call for sanding and gluing, I would have done it. I only glued. XB4 instructions say sanding and gluing. But even if I would have sanded them down, they would have broken anyways. It's like taking plywood take the ends and pull it apart at the shock mount hole. No stress noted on either side. Just clean pull apart CF. Thats what they should be call "JUST PULL APART CF". lol
all 1/10 4wd buggy shock tower can be broken, I've even seen some good AE racers using two layer of shock tower in the front, double the thickness.
after all, the best solution is not to crash.
mod 4wd buggy class is really pro and quick, it's the formula 1 in real racing, it's not really designed for even intermediate level racers. And that's probably the reason the class has been near dead in the US.
1/8 buggy on the other hand, need to be able to handle a lot of abuse, considering they need to be able to handle over an hour of continuous tough driving.
I don't think it's really the "sanding and gluing" problem. I was once told, sanding and/or gluing carbon fiber is mostly to prevent you from being accidentally cut by carbon fiber, though it looks fine outside, inside it's rather sharp and stiff.
all 1/10 4wd buggy shock tower can be broken, I've even seen some good AE racers using two layer of shock tower in the front, double the thickness.
after all, the best solution is not to crash.
mod 4wd buggy class is really pro and quick, it's the formula 1 in real racing, it's not really designed for even intermediate level racers. And that's probably the reason the class has been near dead in the US.
1/8 buggy on the other hand, need to be able to handle a lot of abuse, considering they need to be able to handle over an hour of continuous tough driving.
all 1/10 4wd buggy shock tower can be broken, I've even seen some good AE racers using two layer of shock tower in the front, double the thickness.
after all, the best solution is not to crash.
mod 4wd buggy class is really pro and quick, it's the formula 1 in real racing, it's not really designed for even intermediate level racers. And that's probably the reason the class has been near dead in the US.
1/8 buggy on the other hand, need to be able to handle a lot of abuse, considering they need to be able to handle over an hour of continuous tough driving.
Tech Master
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Any update on the rear shock mod? What is it suppose to do?
Tech Champion
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Are you talking about the shock mount itself, that's attaches the top of the shock to the shock tower? If so yes I had replace it. Because one of the bolts was bent so I install the old version. tdr330031 and I also had to get tdr330036. I know originally they did not have big bore. That's why I got dex410 v3. "STANDOFFISH"? I do not know what this is. Are you saying the bulkhead? Sorry
Tech Champion
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Agree, go back to the stock shock mounts and I bet those towers do not break. I have been running the v3 stock carbon for two years and not had one break.
Last edited by jmackani; 06-20-2013 at 05:47 AM.
Tech Champion
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Funny, my brother's DEX410 has ORIGINAL CF front and rear towers. It was a 2010 spec which came with the quick change stand offs, just like what you're blaming for the breakage. It's been battle tested and proven for multiple seasons, both indoor and outdoor. There may be a batch issue with new towers (not that I've seen though personally), but blaming the quick change style standoffs is just a plain false accusation. If anything they increase the mounting surface area and are stronger than the plastic style.
Tech Fanatic
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I have the Tresrey version shock mounts which are aluminum. I have the plastic washer on the head side of the screw and one of the 1mm plastic spacers from the kit between the tower and the aluminum mount. Hopefully this will have enough give to protect the shock CF tower.
I had some pretty hard off camber landings during last night's practice with no problems. This is on a hard packed track with no forgiveness. Time will tell I suppose.
I had some pretty hard off camber landings during last night's practice with no problems. This is on a hard packed track with no forgiveness. Time will tell I suppose.
Tech Champion
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Front shock tower problems?
Try hacking up a set of these and putting them on the front....
Off the front shock tower of an HPI Vorza.
I hope that somehow some of the companies that make aftermarket plastic parts can make some that fit properly. They're the cats ass and do the job well. Just a pain in the ass to hack up and mount.
Try hacking up a set of these and putting them on the front....
Off the front shock tower of an HPI Vorza.
I hope that somehow some of the companies that make aftermarket plastic parts can make some that fit properly. They're the cats ass and do the job well. Just a pain in the ass to hack up and mount.