MySlowZ

Will any 12mm sized bladders fit the big bore shocks? Are the 12mm bladders for the tlr22 (tlr5089) work ok?

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

hey i never thought about that?! i think i have some spares ones from my old 22 so i can try tomorrow.

alexkenison

iTrader: (7)

22 bladders will work just fine

morris

iTrader: (44)

ok cool..i kinda alreay used the blanks and drilled them out to 4 hole...2 holes at 1.6 and 2 holes at 1.02



the tracks i run at are pretty smooth overall...i just like the way this setup feels.i have tride alot of different pistons n oils...i like running the 6 hole 1.4 with losi 35 in the back and losi 37.5 in the front....would like to get my car a little more responsive..so for this week i dropped to losi 32.5 in the back and losi 35 in the front.

my 410 had like 4 hole 1.3 in the front with 35 oil and 6 hole 1.3 in the back with 32.5 oil.i wanted to get the car a little more responsive..so i thought i would try the same piston n oil as my 210...rear shocks feel great...front shocks are really light...like no pack...lol
was thinking of going to a 1.2 6 hole with 35 oil and go from there

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

This combo works awesome on the big bores.. 1.2x6 front w/ 45wt oil (losi), 1.3x6 rear w/ 40wt, buggy was mostly on rails.. see prior link to a run. High bite w/ some big jumps, several elevation changes. Dk blue front, light green rear for springs. I usually set rebound around 1/2 on the front and 25% on the rear. Could go w/ slightly lighter oils if you are on real rough stuff and don't have any really big jumps, but this is the ticket for my local tracks.. clay and carpet.

The 210 (rm3) works great w/ 1.2x6 rear w/ 40wt to have the pack I need for our triple.. a 1.2 w/ 4-5hole would also be nice (plugged) but you would need to reduce oil weights some. Id suspect the mm would need a little less.

morris

iTrader: (44)

i appreciate the info as im sure everyone else does.
i ended up just leaving the 6 hole 1.4 in for now with 45 oil in it.i will find out first thing tomorrow morning how it works.
i chose to go that route with the cuz it just felt planted like that.
could possibly like more weight transfer in the front though.

on my 210 im also been playing with the 22 springs...same with the 410.
the 210 im using orange front and pink rear..the 410 im trying 22t front silver n gray rear...im using the 22t front sping cuz im running older shock shafts...so i basically just have more droop than the stock v3 shaft.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

NP, ill post my setup sheet after the next race,, just trying a couple things.

my dex210 is super dialed on dark greeen front, dark red rear with the pistons and oils mentioned above. RM3

*note w/ the dex210 make sure at full droop on the rear there is no vibration, keep reducing until it is smooth. Buggy acts very odd with too much rear droop and the vibrations are not good for it, can do some real damage or at the very last add to wear if you are on the throttle in air a lot.

ridgeracer

iTrader: (4)

Hi

Anyone know were to buy the DMX410 chassis conversion set from Motogo Seiki ?
Tried Rc-champ , Bansaihobbies and Rdvtg but no help from them..
Also tried a french company, but they did not ship to Norway

Gump

iTrader: (2)

I mostly run on carpet with my DEX410. First thing I'll say is not all carpets are created equal. The local track has carpet with SOOOOO much traction, that no matter what you do, you can not eliminate traction rolling unless you literally run down your tires on a belt sander and trim two rows of pins off the outside edge of the fronts. Once they're down (66% gone), they take about 2 packs to become useful, then you have about 5 packs of good solid runs, followed by another 2 or 3 packs of decent runs with the use of traction compound. Past that point, they just don't have enough grip.
At some of the other tracks, the carpet has less traction. New tires can be scuffed in with about 2 packs, and the car won't be so tippy if its lowered enough and you cut two rows off the front..

I find that there's one real truth about running on various carpet tracks - its always a compromise between the car's ability to either corner well (not traction roll or hook and wash out) or jump and land well.
On some of the layouts, with newer tires I have to run dangerously low ride height and limited droop to cope with the extra traction. Others I can raise the car and add some droop and it will jump and land well and still make decent corner speed. Even a changed layout on the same carpet will see me make changes to ride height and droop.

Other options for dealing with traction roll is to change your roll centers and your sway bars. It will always come down to your tire's condition and the amount of traction on your particular carpet. Reference the Hudy setup guide to see how roll center and ride height affects the handling of your car.

If you want to keep your car as consistent as possible for as long as possible, I have a solution. Instead of owning one or two sets of tires and wearing them out, try getting several sets of tires at the same time. I currently have 6 sets. Change them every time you run the car and you will be more consistent. Just watch out for those serrated wheel nuts!!! Changing tires often will chew the rims and eventually the serrations will no longer grip the mangled plastic. Keep that in mind.

My basic setup for carpet came from Jorn Neumann's high traction carpet setup... but as I mentioned I had to modify it to suit my tires (schumacher pins in yellow) and driving style.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...und2012042022/

morris

iTrader: (44)

again thx....i got my 210 pretty close to dialed.i run on low bite tracks...a couple medium bite tracks..i like the way it works.
im going to a big race tomorrow and i will be doing alot with the 410.if i find something that i really like i would be more than happy to post up a set-up.same with my 210...also running rm3...i think that the set-up i have on it now will be dialed...but sometimes i think wrong...lol
will post more info tomorrow at the track.

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

MD2 out of France is the only place I know of right now......

ridgeracer

iTrader: (4)

Yes that was the french company I tried ..
Really would like to try that chassis.

morris

iTrader: (44)

8-racing makes some pretty sick stuff for the durango cars
check them out here..its all in german..but you still can see the pics...e-mail martin for any questions you have.

http://www.8-racing.de/

jckitty

iTrader: (26)

For those of you running a RSPro with a 6.5 or 7.5 what pinion and spur sizes are you using and what settings on the esc, I'm having heat issues

MySlowZ

I'm running my rs pro with LRP X20 6.5t and 21t pinion. Using Randy's profile found @ tekins website. It's a good starting point, only thing I've changed was the current limiter settings. No heating issues after 10 min of practice @ the track. Have you tried cutting holes on the body to allow more air to flow through?