valyau2002

iTrader: (6)

Cheers K10wN,

I like your thinking there. That never even occurred to me that that could be done. I'll have to investigate that when the time comes to replace it again. It still went ok, but it sounded terrible, was only ever going to be a matter of time before the alloy gear chewed out. I'll try an upload a picture of what mine looked like compared to a newish one later.

Forgetful_Duck

iTrader: (6)

For the AE Spurr conversion, did you use the standard AE slipper pads or cut the tamiya ones to fit?

valyau2002

iTrader: (6)

I got hold of the AE ones, I also think the ones from the Tamiya 501/DB01 Durga/Baldre fit the AE spur as well. (but don't quote me on that)

valyau2002

iTrader: (6)

Here's a picture of my worn out slipper shaft gear and a close up of a dirty but not worn out one

col carpenter

iTrader: (2)

Hi Guys,

Has anybody found a good spur/pinion combination for a 17.5 brushless?
I want to try racing stock with a FDR of about 5.
Any help would greatly appreciated
Thanks

Col

valyau2002

iTrader: (6)

Hi Col,

I've been using this program http://www.rcracing.com/Gear_Ratio_Program_1100.cfm

The DF-03 has a transmision ratio of 2.94 if I'm not mistaken, just plug the numbers in to the program and it comes up with a nice chart.

I have a sneaking feeling that you'll be struggling to find the right sized spur and pinion to get to a FDR of 5 on the DF-03 and still get it to fit properly.

K10wN

5:1 FDR sounds a touch extreme. The standard gearing of 78T spur and 26T pinion on the 85mm buggy wheels see the DF03 travel at ~30km/h using the kit silvercan motor and TEU-101BK ESC.

Here is the full gearing chart for the DF03 anyway:

col carpenter

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=K10wN;6014231]5:1 FDR sounds a touch extreme. The standard gearing of 78T spur and 26T pinion on the 85mm buggy wheels see the DF03 travel at ~30km/h using the kit silvercan motor and TEU-101BK ESC.

Thanks for advice, I did not think i could get down that far. Obviously I can't compete with the B44 but i'll gear it as low as i can and see what happens.

Thanks again

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Hey guys! It's been awhile and I've been dragging my legs on it, but I've installed the Hobbywing EZrun 60A V2 with a 4300Kv motor. I've also bought an additional FHSS-2 receiver (the one that was on here was moved over to the SC10).

So with the smaller ESC, I've moved the electronics around. I really love this Hobbywing 60A V2, I've tested it (on the streets). Here's some pics for you guys...

EDIT:

Forgot to mention. I sawed off the little tabs that's part of the rear shock tower off of my broken GPM aluminum ones to serve as the rear tower "brace" by bolting it over the existing shock tower's tab but a bit slanted to bolt the other end onto the rear transmission cover area... Will take some more pictures later. It's a little too beefy but hey, I hope this works on preventing the rear tranny case from splitting where the shock tower mounts too.

Forgetful_Duck

iTrader: (6)

I've had it with these green shock caps . This is the 3rd time i'm replacing them. Thye just seem to tear so easily. I'm using light oil and filling up my shocks to perfectly, and they still end up tearing ruining the shocks.

Has anyone tried TRF aeration dampers on the df03? I'm looking to get a set of those to replace the MS aluminium ones. Sick of replacing green caps....

Forgetful_Duck

iTrader: (6)

Ah, i redid my front shocks with new green caps, but this time didn't fill the oil all the way up, i left some air gap in them, and after a day at a BMX track it seems it's all held up still.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaadkZuGs9c
My friend was driving my df03, i was filming putting on a retarded asian fob acent.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

+1 on that video! Your fob accent was pretty funny...

FD, Paulie that used to grace this thread (he has moved to the Durga and sold his DF-03) tried the aeration damper and if I remember correctly, he didn't really like them...

I bought some shock bushing from Duratrax (for their Evader series) and I'm planning to use some Losi shocks when these DF-03 shocks gets shot...

I think if you can figure a way to use a Losi or AE shocks, it might be a lot better... I could've swore that I've read people using the 501x shocks on their DF-03 and felt some improvement...

The shocks that come with the DF-03 (even the MS kits) leaves more to be desired, but I actually do like the green sealing cap/bladder thingie. I just wish the parts on Tamiyas were made just a little beefier like the American made RCs (AE, Losi, etc.)...

K10wN

The dampers on the MS kit are the same as the DF03 Hopup damper set, just a different spring set. I have them fitted to many models and don't have problems with any of the sets (5 sets). The black plastic CVAs are bit shocking, but better than pogo-sticks of some of the Tamiya models (friction dampers). Can't say I've ever torn one of the green cap seals. How are you doing that?

I drive a lot more than most and haven't worn a set out yet. I do keep them clean after each run though.

Can't comment on the aeration set, not tried them yet.

Forgetful_Duck

iTrader: (6)

If you watch some of my video's u'll how big some of the jumps i make this car do. If i fill the oil up tot he brim and create the perfect shock with no air inside, the Green caps WILL tear under the conditions i drive it in.
I've torn 7 in all now. Rears, fronts, just haven't replaced the rears as there really isnt a difference, just the fronts.
Once they tear it creates a massive air gap inside the cyclinder and towards say 80% in of the suspension travel, theres inconsistancey, or a "blank feeling' when u push the piston. Turns into a pogo stick shock....above 80% travel.

For the rear shocks, the car will easily bottom out before the piston runs out of oil and hits the air gap at the top, so i haven't chaged out the broken seals there.
but for the fronts, its very noticeable. as bottoming out will use easily 95% of the travel.

After the last rebuild, puttign new green caps in the front's ive deliberately left a small air gap. Seems to have worked in preserving the pistons, cause i've run the car back at the track and so far the front's havent broken yet.

The tears in the green caps have always been just around the edge. its not noticeable at first but if u stretch the cap a tiny bit its visible. Also you'll find a large pool of oil ontop of the cap... which obviously isn't meant to be there...

scrubnick

iTrader: (5)

Where's a good place to get wheels for this thing? Ultimate doesn't even carry them! I checked some Academy wheels and the fit the front, but what about the back?