Tamiya DF-03 type
#556
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That is one sweet ride mj.
About the second Fire Dragon body, I've just finished putting paint on it. It's a combination of Tamiya Black (PS-5) and Red (PS-2) where the major color is black with the few "bumps" on the rear are red (as well as the "eyelash" portion) will post pics of it later on when I get back from work...
I haven't peeled back the overspray film on it yet, since I'm not ready to put the decal set on there. I'm going to put a subset of the actual Fire Dragon decal set, since this one doesn't follow the box art...
I'm planning to mount this new black/red one on the DF-03, haven't really gotten around to how I'm going to do that yet... Currently, trying to finish up the Fire Dragon kit build then mount the Red body on it, then do a wheel by wheel comparison to see where I need to saw off the black/red Fire Dragon to mount on my DF-03.
TOO MANY TOYS! I've also got a new SC10 kit that's been staring at me for the past five days!!!
But regarding the FHSS2 radio, I'm going to mount the receiver in the DF-03 instead of the B44 that I was planning on doing, since the DF-03 has an immediate need for it, a small receiver. Gonna then transplant the receiver from the receiver in the DF-03 into the Fire Dragon. For the SC10 and my B44, I'm going to get two more FHSS2 receivers for each of them, and possibly another Mamba Max for the SC10... Not sure though, since I'm planning on using the TEU-101k that came with the Fire Dragon with the Fire Dragon, but I also have a good trusty Novak GTX that I'm thinking of putting into the SC10 until I burn up all the brushed motors I have.
Too many toys, so little time!![crying](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/bawling.gif)
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
![sneaky](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/sneaky.gif)
About the second Fire Dragon body, I've just finished putting paint on it. It's a combination of Tamiya Black (PS-5) and Red (PS-2) where the major color is black with the few "bumps" on the rear are red (as well as the "eyelash" portion) will post pics of it later on when I get back from work...
I haven't peeled back the overspray film on it yet, since I'm not ready to put the decal set on there. I'm going to put a subset of the actual Fire Dragon decal set, since this one doesn't follow the box art...
I'm planning to mount this new black/red one on the DF-03, haven't really gotten around to how I'm going to do that yet... Currently, trying to finish up the Fire Dragon kit build then mount the Red body on it, then do a wheel by wheel comparison to see where I need to saw off the black/red Fire Dragon to mount on my DF-03.
TOO MANY TOYS! I've also got a new SC10 kit that's been staring at me for the past five days!!!
But regarding the FHSS2 radio, I'm going to mount the receiver in the DF-03 instead of the B44 that I was planning on doing, since the DF-03 has an immediate need for it, a small receiver. Gonna then transplant the receiver from the receiver in the DF-03 into the Fire Dragon. For the SC10 and my B44, I'm going to get two more FHSS2 receivers for each of them, and possibly another Mamba Max for the SC10... Not sure though, since I'm planning on using the TEU-101k that came with the Fire Dragon with the Fire Dragon, but I also have a good trusty Novak GTX that I'm thinking of putting into the SC10 until I burn up all the brushed motors I have.
Too many toys, so little time!
![crying](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/bawling.gif)
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
![sneaky](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/sneaky.gif)
![Smiling](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/kawaii.gif)
#557
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
cant wait to see what the fire dragon body looks like on there! could be pretty sick.
must be hard to be able to have all those toys....
poor guy.
must be hard to be able to have all those toys....
poor guy.
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#558
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
double post
#559
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
I also agree that the Fire Dragon body sounds very promising and I hope it looks great for you.
#562
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Tom for the welcome, but I think I have been on this thread a while back. I've certainly been lurking for a long time if I haven't!
Yes, I got the longer bumper deal off ebay with the free shipping (always good when you're in Oz). Can't wait to get it as my DF-03 is mainly a park basher at the moment. Fairly happy with it, but find the outdrives are a pain as they keep on breaking (especially the 3Racing ones. Having some diff problems too, considering getting ceramic diff balls from Acer. Just got some new Tamiya thrust bearings, I had the same problem with the thrust bearing deforming in the 3Racing Diff outdrives. I also need to get some m2 locknuts as the old one stripped out.
I'm running with a 9 turn 35a Ezrun/Hobbywing combo with an Intellect 2s 3200mah 30C lipo and I have been very happy with its performance, especially for the price. I highly recommend going to lipo, with the right charger and handling they are pretty good, besides the performance left my old Nimh batteries far off in the distance.
I was also wondering how heavy some of the df-03's out there weigh race ready. Since going lipo, I've been wondering whether or not to add any ballast to it.
Yes, I got the longer bumper deal off ebay with the free shipping (always good when you're in Oz). Can't wait to get it as my DF-03 is mainly a park basher at the moment. Fairly happy with it, but find the outdrives are a pain as they keep on breaking (especially the 3Racing ones. Having some diff problems too, considering getting ceramic diff balls from Acer. Just got some new Tamiya thrust bearings, I had the same problem with the thrust bearing deforming in the 3Racing Diff outdrives. I also need to get some m2 locknuts as the old one stripped out.
I'm running with a 9 turn 35a Ezrun/Hobbywing combo with an Intellect 2s 3200mah 30C lipo and I have been very happy with its performance, especially for the price. I highly recommend going to lipo, with the right charger and handling they are pretty good, besides the performance left my old Nimh batteries far off in the distance.
I was also wondering how heavy some of the df-03's out there weigh race ready. Since going lipo, I've been wondering whether or not to add any ballast to it.
Last edited by valyau2002; 04-14-2009 at 09:20 PM.
#563
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My experience, ditch any steel made from Hong Kong. They are not up to snuff when compared to the steel goods you get from the US or Japan. They are soft and deform easily...
As for thrust bearing, check a few posts back and you'll see my write-up on how I made my own thrust bearing assembly. I too had the same problem of having the caged Tamiya stuff deform, although you are correct with the observation that the thrust bearings deformed in the 3Racing outdrives, since the one that deformed in mine just so happen to be the one inside the 3Racing ones. My fronts was a 3Racing one as well, but it shattered after the first pack, since then, I replaced it with Tamiya's steel stuff and those thrust bearings survived my rebuild.
Another gripe I had with those 3Racing "steel" HD outdrives is that the one I had in the rear are totally notched up where the dog bones meet the outdrive.
My assessment is, any steel from China is completely worthless and cause trouble in the long run. Better to pony up the dough and buy the real Tamiya ones...
As for thrust bearing, check a few posts back and you'll see my write-up on how I made my own thrust bearing assembly. I too had the same problem of having the caged Tamiya stuff deform, although you are correct with the observation that the thrust bearings deformed in the 3Racing outdrives, since the one that deformed in mine just so happen to be the one inside the 3Racing ones. My fronts was a 3Racing one as well, but it shattered after the first pack, since then, I replaced it with Tamiya's steel stuff and those thrust bearings survived my rebuild.
Another gripe I had with those 3Racing "steel" HD outdrives is that the one I had in the rear are totally notched up where the dog bones meet the outdrive.
My assessment is, any steel from China is completely worthless and cause trouble in the long run. Better to pony up the dough and buy the real Tamiya ones...
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
#564
Tech Rookie
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi, stumbled across this thread while looking for info on DF-03's. Just thought id share my own with you but i cant post urls yet ![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Im using some extra Yeah racing hop-ups and running a Ezrun 5.5T brushless and a 60a ESC. Spur is 82 and a 0.5 steel 22 pinion and damn its quick
Just need a decent battery now so the fun lasts longer.
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Im using some extra Yeah racing hop-ups and running a Ezrun 5.5T brushless and a 60a ESC. Spur is 82 and a 0.5 steel 22 pinion and damn its quick
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
#565
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Welcome to our DF-03 thread spence! I'm still stuck on NiMH technology and haven't jumped to LiPos yet, so I'm currently using a Team Orion 3300mAH Rocket Pack, and two AE 3600mAH Wolfpacks. They are "decent" packs for me... I'm powering mine with a Mamba Max 4600kV and although this system would love a LiPo in it, I'm getting decent power with decent run time, about 12-15 minutes when it starts to not make it over jumps. I usually pull it off the track as soon as I detect a big fade in power, and even then, I get about 8 to 9 minutes of runtime on that. Plenty "decent" for a 5-minute qualifier/mains (although I no longer race, I'm just your average joe basher!).
I know Paulie and Jon on this thread races their DF-03s, Paulie has moved onto the Durga, but all Tamiyas are wonderful in my opinion!
I know Paulie and Jon on this thread races their DF-03s, Paulie has moved onto the Durga, but all Tamiyas are wonderful in my opinion!
#566
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Its hard to find a lipo that fits comfortable into the DF03 because of tis extremely tight and limited battery space... A while back I ordered some hyperion Swift Car Classic packs(same deminsions as a standard 6 cell pack) that comes wrapped just like a regular pack with round edges and all. Unfortunately UPS has lost my order... Twice... So I should be getting my third in sometime soon and when I do I can give you guys a report on how well they work and fit into the DF03.
#567
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Li-Po fits in mine with room to spare. I'm using Intellect IP4000 7.4v packs.
I've been racing mine and the only issue I'm having is going through mainshaft alloy gears like they are made of soft butter. Had nothing else break or wear. No overheating issues.
I've been racing mine and the only issue I'm having is going through mainshaft alloy gears like they are made of soft butter. Had nothing else break or wear. No overheating issues.
#569
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Each chassis gets it's own motor but the ESCs I mount on velcro and swap between cars. Takes about 5 min to swap them over and reset the ESC with the laptop to the next cars pre-saved setting on the way. My transmitter has a 20 model memory so it's changed with the press of a button too.
Saves a lot of money on ESCs when you share them if you want to run many cars cheaply.