alana07

iTrader: (53)

longer is not always better! you gotta find the sweet spot!

Rfury

iTrader: (6)

Stock is just fine at my home track. It really all depends on your track and what is needed from the car.

darcness

iTrader: (3)

^ Agree 100%.

You have to realize that it's all give and take, and comes down to your individual driving style. I'm still not good enough with 10th scale buggy to really take advantage of many of these upgrades (big bores, longer chassis, etc). I'm sticking with my SP2 setup for now because I want to get better at driving.

Stick with what you have, get LOTS of track time in, and THEN make changes based on your driving style and advice from other drivers. The SP2 is still a very capable car.

Rfury

iTrader: (6)

Well, when I said stock...I meant stock length chassis. I do at least run big bores.

Xyzzy

iTrader: (32)

A few random SP2 WC kit questions:

1. Are the stock rear hub carriers 0°, 0.5° or 1°?
2. Are the best shock shaft seals the red ones or the clear ones? (ORG03X?)
3. What are the benefits to the carbon composite option parts?
4. Are the LAW32 plastic rear suspension bushings better then the steel ones?
5. Does the kit come with metal shock end balls or flanged bearings for the steering rack?
6. What spur/pinion would be a good start for a "blinky" 13.5? Will I have to use an AE or Kimbrough spur and AE slipper pads?

Thanks!

What up?

iTrader: (14)

The Stock hubs are 0 degree's
The best seals are kind of your own preference between performance and strengh. Red are harder and seems to last longer and the clear are softer and have less drag but will need to be changed more, Also depends on your track surface.
Carbon parts are stiffer and tend to have less flex. but are more brittle when cold.
The plastic bushings are mainly for when you run aluminum suspension mounts so the aluminum doesnt wear as fast and there is less binding.
Plastic shock ends and balls and a flanged bushing for the steering rack.
Not sure on the 13.5.

Hope that helps

savageboy69

iTrader: (93)

1. 0 degree
2. may be one of those things that are personal preference. ive only run the reds
3. carbon composite is stiffer so it will have less flex, but if you are prone to wrecking it may break before a plastic part.
4. as a rule of thumb with a plastic susp holder run metal bushings, with metal susp holder run plastic bushings
5. yes on metal shock end balls and i think yet on the flanged bearings,( not sure on that ill have to look)
6. no idea on that i run 8.5

savageboy69

iTrader: (93)

hahaaha, the similarity in answers are creepy josh , lol

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

With a 13.5 & no esc timing you could very safely start @ 72/29 or 69/28.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I would start somewhere around 28/72. You don't HAVE to use an AE or Kimbrough spur, but I certainly would. Kimbroughs are the best /quietest spurs you can buy. And yes, if you choose to run that spur, you will need to pickup a set of the AE V2 slipper pads to go with it (not the high torque pads though).

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

love my K cars however it seems like everytime I go out I break something.

the servo saver is actually a little loose so the spindle must have stopped on the carrier like it should but the wheel had other ideas....
hey anyone have an Avid rear wheel yet ?

savageboy69

iTrader: (93)

id venture to say you landed on the left front with the wheel turned?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

This is my second RB5, and between both cars, I have yet to break a single part.

socal90

iTrader: (34)

Kyosho Aluminum Wide Rear Outer Suspension Holder
Brand new in package $22 Shipped

Part Compatibility:
Kyosho Ultima RB5
Kyosho Ultima DB
Kyosho Ultima SC
Kyosho Ultima RT5



This is a optional Kyosho Aluminum Wide Rear Outer Suspension Holder, and is intended for use with the Kyosho Ultima RB5 and RT5 1/10 scale vehicles.

PM ME IF YOU'RE INTERESTED! Thanks

What up?

iTrader: (14)

LOL! That is funny.