Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
I'm basically at the kit setup for mount points/etc.
37.5/white springs front
30/white rears
Car is 3 for 3 in stock class. I'm thinking of trying it in mod soon as that may actually take advantage of the turn-in/ rotation the car naturally seems to have even moreso than in stock.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (144)
I got all of the parts minus the gunmetal stuff (blue is fine) to convert my car to the WC today. I took a few shots of the arms. The top ones are stock 521-1 and the bottoms are the new UM566. As I knew the fronts are longer on the 566s but I didnt know the rears were different too. Much more meat where the inner hinge pin goes. Cant wait to try this stuff. I drove the car for the first time the other night in SP-2 form and it was awesome. I almost cant imagine it any better. Not sure what the M3 stamp one the new front means either.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (29)
Thanks for your reply Just so i am clear- I got this kit slightly used. The front springs have blue paint mark on them. So the kyo springs that are pink have a blue mark?? On the rear springs I cant find any paint mark so in your view they are red? You said they aren't Losi springs but I dont see kyo springs in blue so as you can tell i am confused )
I will add the weight thanks.
Thanks for d/r tip as I find lots of people forget about that. I did turn it down some but I am sure it could have been turned down further. Car seemed very very responsive which was way diff from the 22 I have been driving-not a bad thing just way different. Please clarify on the spring confusion I have and then I will try your suggestions asap
I will add the weight thanks.
Thanks for d/r tip as I find lots of people forget about that. I did turn it down some but I am sure it could have been turned down further. Car seemed very very responsive which was way diff from the 22 I have been driving-not a bad thing just way different. Please clarify on the spring confusion I have and then I will try your suggestions asap
ok, just so you know the springs arent losi, the fronts with the blue mark are supposed to be pinks, rears are supposed to be red, (in my opinion both seem softer then pinks and reds). First things first you need more weight in the front , you want about 20g-25g up front, under the bulk head you can fit 10g and under the steering rack you can fit about 15g. As i said earlier i think the front springs you have are actually softer than a pink so there are a few things you can do. the easiest thing is to keep the weight in the front how it is and run thicker oil, 35/30. or add more weight and go to a white spring upfront. your problem may also be solved by simply lowering your dual rate slightly so you dont have so much steering. well those are a few things to try, let us know how it goes
nice vid!!
cota4rt
are the entire springs a type of gunmetal (or gray or black) color with a little splotch of paint on one of the lower coils?
if so then its the wc box kit springs (which they went with a gun metal theme in the kit not sure why there are a few blue spacers though) which we have been told are similar to the pink front red rear (but some say they feal just a tad lighter then the real color ones of pink and red). if i understand correct the wc is a box version of one of jared tebo's set ups which uses a pink front red rear
are the entire springs a type of gunmetal (or gray or black) color with a little splotch of paint on one of the lower coils?
if so then its the wc box kit springs (which they went with a gun metal theme in the kit not sure why there are a few blue spacers though) which we have been told are similar to the pink front red rear (but some say they feal just a tad lighter then the real color ones of pink and red). if i understand correct the wc is a box version of one of jared tebo's set ups which uses a pink front red rear
nice. the springs doing 360 spins while going onto the shocks was a nice touch
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
Thanks for your reply Just so i am clear- I got this kit slightly used. The front springs have blue paint mark on them. So the kyo springs that are pink have a blue mark?? On the rear springs I cant find any paint mark so in your view they are red? You said they aren't Losi springs but I dont see kyo springs in blue so as you can tell i am confused )
I will add the weight thanks.
Thanks for d/r tip as I find lots of people forget about that. I did turn it down some but I am sure it could have been turned down further. Car seemed very very responsive which was way diff from the 22 I have been driving-not a bad thing just way different. Please clarify on the spring confusion I have and then I will try your suggestions asap
I will add the weight thanks.
Thanks for d/r tip as I find lots of people forget about that. I did turn it down some but I am sure it could have been turned down further. Car seemed very very responsive which was way diff from the 22 I have been driving-not a bad thing just way different. Please clarify on the spring confusion I have and then I will try your suggestions asap
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Stumper......
Ok, I have a steering problem I'm asking the "K" family for help on.
Last week my RB5 ( yes, the 1st edition) was running great. While off to the side of the track to dial in my sons Slash I was crunched by a SCT and my rear shock tower was snapped in two.
I replaced the tower. While doing this I noticed that my motor plate was loose too. While tightening it up I noticed two of the holes in the plate were stripped out. I tightened the two that I could and for the top one just in front of the motor guard, I put in a longer screw from the other side and used a small ny-lock nut to hold it. The screw head has lots of clearance and is not rubbing the slipper assembly. The motor plate is secure.
This is the only thing I did to the buggy from last week.
Last night when I put it down, after a few laps I noticed it was not turning right as well as it should. Left seemed fine, but right hand turns were wider.
I ran the track in the opposite direction just to be sure, and sure enough...the corners where I was running wide were nice and tight when taking them as lefts.
When in my hands the car has full left and right steering through, when at a stand still on the track same thing. I thought maybe my servo saver was loose, but it seemed fine.
I tried everything I could think of to solve this. Pulled the servo, took off and reinstalled the horn and reinstalled the servo.
I didn't touch the front end from last week. I don't get why it's doing this.
I can't really post a set up as I bought the car used last season and have not really done much set up wprk on it because it ran great from the start.
My set up shouldn't really matter either, because I didn't make any changes to it from last week right? It just stopped wanting to turn right.
Is it possible to over tighten the motor plate???
I have one final thought. Even though I didn't make any changes to it...could it be my diff???
ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
Last week my RB5 ( yes, the 1st edition) was running great. While off to the side of the track to dial in my sons Slash I was crunched by a SCT and my rear shock tower was snapped in two.
I replaced the tower. While doing this I noticed that my motor plate was loose too. While tightening it up I noticed two of the holes in the plate were stripped out. I tightened the two that I could and for the top one just in front of the motor guard, I put in a longer screw from the other side and used a small ny-lock nut to hold it. The screw head has lots of clearance and is not rubbing the slipper assembly. The motor plate is secure.
This is the only thing I did to the buggy from last week.
Last night when I put it down, after a few laps I noticed it was not turning right as well as it should. Left seemed fine, but right hand turns were wider.
I ran the track in the opposite direction just to be sure, and sure enough...the corners where I was running wide were nice and tight when taking them as lefts.
When in my hands the car has full left and right steering through, when at a stand still on the track same thing. I thought maybe my servo saver was loose, but it seemed fine.
I tried everything I could think of to solve this. Pulled the servo, took off and reinstalled the horn and reinstalled the servo.
I didn't touch the front end from last week. I don't get why it's doing this.
I can't really post a set up as I bought the car used last season and have not really done much set up wprk on it because it ran great from the start.
My set up shouldn't really matter either, because I didn't make any changes to it from last week right? It just stopped wanting to turn right.
Is it possible to over tighten the motor plate???
I have one final thought. Even though I didn't make any changes to it...could it be my diff???
ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
The big bore springs that you can buy are made by xgear, The springs that come with the kit are made by kyosho or another company. I was told the kit springs didnt use the x gear springs to keep cost down on the kit itself. As far as i know you cant just buy the springs that come in the kit, the ones with a blue dot and the ones with no mark. The reason i say they are like a pink and red is because its hard for 2 different companys to put out the exact same spring
Ok thanks for the explanation. I was confused thinking I had the wrong springs since the colors or lack of didnt match.
I will try your suggestions next time I can get some testing in
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Yeah, you just need to shave a bit off the front of the tower with a Dremel in order to clear the big bore shock collars.
Tech Rookie
hello,
new with Kyoshp RB5 WC, not easy to find parts in Spain. What are most frequent parts to brake? I want to buy some parts as back up.
Thank's
David
new with Kyoshp RB5 WC, not easy to find parts in Spain. What are most frequent parts to brake? I want to buy some parts as back up.
Thank's
David