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Old 01-04-2008, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
These

http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=item&id=137

the steering rack comes with the caster blocks like Joe showed. I have yet to break any arms or caster blocks/spindles but I have gone through a couple steering racks. I am hoping for an updated part. I have been turning in my broken parts and kyosho is looking at them!
yup those are the ones i just ordered along with all my other bearings.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:02 AM
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Great news Deception. I am not sure what the rules are for the box. I think you have to be able to get in in the box and exercise the suspension? (aka push down on the car) Glad to know it fits though! I know there a lot of cars out there that "squeeze" in the box!
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:13 AM
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By chance does anyone know what the size the front and rear hub bearings are? How about the diff and transmission? I am going to order some steering rack bearings too.

I do have a steering rack out at a metal shop for quote in T6061 alumium. I will keep you posted if anyone is interested.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by lp3233
By chance does anyone know what the size the front and rear hub bearings are? How about the diff and transmission? I am going to order some steering rack bearings too.

I do have a steering rack out at a metal shop for quote in T6061 alumium. I will keep you posted if anyone is interested.
Here is what i just ordered. the 3x6x2.5 are for the steering rack.
YOUR ORDER ITEMS:
3x6x2.5 Flanged Metal, 2 @ $1.00 each.
()

5x10x4 Revolutions, 4 @ $1.00 each.
()

10x15x4 Metal, 2 @ $1.00 each.
()

5x8x2.5 Metal, 4 @ $1.00 each.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:25 AM
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Yeah

5X10 for front and rear hubs and top shaft and idler gear for tranny
10X15 for diff outdrive bearings
5X8 are for the diff

Get the revolutions like loriding69 got for any that are available. The one rubber one metal bearings are the best of both worlds.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:28 AM
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Thanks, I will go order some.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:28 AM
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REALLY thinking of getting in to one of these rb5's, could someone post exactly what would be needed to do this mid-arm conversion? and anything else that is suggested on this vehicle for that matter on an out of the box rb5 for upgrades?
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by thedoc329
REALLY thinking of getting in to one of these rb5's, could someone post exactly what would be needed to do this mid-arm conversion? and anything else that is suggested on this vehicle for that matter on an out of the box rb5 for upgrades?
It's not needed, Get the car going first. See how your car is and then take it from there. Get b4 FT turnbuckles and 3x6 Flanged bearings for the steering rack first to start. these are the only real nessecary upgrade. Kyosho springs are kinda expensive so hold off on rear conversions and get the springs too.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:43 AM
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Run the car with the stock rear end first. The money will be better spent other places like RB stated. The car works well out of the box. The mid rear is not the ticket everywhere and is expensive. Work on getting used to the car and we will help you dial it in stock form.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:53 AM
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I have two sets of Pro-line Inside Job M3 rears's NIB that I am going to post soon for $20 shipped for both sets if anyone is interested. All we use now is squares and holeshots. I also have a fairly new Orion 12x2 revolution motor or $25 shipped. I thought I would give the RB5 guys first crack.
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Old 01-04-2008, 11:37 AM
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Casper ...... give the stock rear SP end a fair go ..... the geometry is so well balanced that I'm sure once you get used to it you'll love it!!!

As for breaking parts on the RB5 I've only broken 1 knuckle but that was a freak accident ... brushed a track marker with a sticking out rbolt head at exactly wheel nut height My own fault for making the car handle so damn well I can place it to the mm I guess!!!!! LOL

The 244-0 is the stock 0deg hubs

244-05 are the 0.5deg toe hubs from the rear mid conversion .... I am going to try running them on the RB5 reversed to reduce rear toe in as I feel the car maybe a little too hooked up and might be reacting to the sort of bumps we get in the UK ..... no way would I want any less rear rotation!!

I am also planning on running 244-05 hubs giving the 0.5deg toe in on the rear of the Lazer SP along with an A15 or A20 rear pin holder to keep the same overall toe setting (using A25s as a base on my car) but hopefully reducing the tendency for it to be unsettled side-to-side in the rearly roguh stuff and when landing a little iffy from big jumps.

Just a thought.

The RB5 seems near built proof to me, and so smooth!!
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Old 01-04-2008, 11:51 AM
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I will. I got some stuff to try out.
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:01 PM
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Hey what tools do you guys use ?

I have been using a normal set and i just ordered a jconcepts metric set. that compatible with rb5 and lazer hardware ?
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:11 PM
  #3059  
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Those look like good tools.
I use Hudy Profi tools. I really like the MIP/Thorp wrenches as well.
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:41 PM
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Mine are due for an upgrade, or at least new tips. My motor screw wrench ive had for 10 years lol.
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