Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread
#3046
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These
http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=item&id=137
the steering rack comes with the caster blocks like Joe showed. I have yet to break any arms or caster blocks/spindles but I have gone through a couple steering racks. I am hoping for an updated part. I have been turning in my broken parts and kyosho is looking at them!![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=item&id=137
the steering rack comes with the caster blocks like Joe showed. I have yet to break any arms or caster blocks/spindles but I have gone through a couple steering racks. I am hoping for an updated part. I have been turning in my broken parts and kyosho is looking at them!
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
#3048
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By chance does anyone know what the size the front and rear hub bearings are? How about the diff and transmission? I am going to order some steering rack bearings too.
I do have a steering rack out at a metal shop for quote in T6061 alumium. I will keep you posted if anyone is interested.
I do have a steering rack out at a metal shop for quote in T6061 alumium. I will keep you posted if anyone is interested.
#3049
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By chance does anyone know what the size the front and rear hub bearings are? How about the diff and transmission? I am going to order some steering rack bearings too.
I do have a steering rack out at a metal shop for quote in T6061 alumium. I will keep you posted if anyone is interested.
I do have a steering rack out at a metal shop for quote in T6061 alumium. I will keep you posted if anyone is interested.
YOUR ORDER ITEMS:
3x6x2.5 Flanged Metal, 2 @ $1.00 each.
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5x10x4 Revolutions, 4 @ $1.00 each.
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10x15x4 Metal, 2 @ $1.00 each.
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5x8x2.5 Metal, 4 @ $1.00 each.
#3051
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Thanks, I will go order some.
#3053
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It's not needed, Get the car going first. See how your car is and then take it from there. Get b4 FT turnbuckles and 3x6 Flanged bearings for the steering rack first to start. these are the only real nessecary upgrade. Kyosho springs are kinda expensive so hold off on rear conversions and get the springs too.
#3054
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Run the car with the stock rear end first. The money will be better spent other places like RB stated. The car works well out of the box. The mid rear is not the ticket everywhere and is expensive. Work on getting used to the car and we will help you dial it in stock form.
#3055
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I have two sets of Pro-line Inside Job M3 rears's NIB that I am going to post soon for $20 shipped for both sets if anyone is interested. All we use now is squares and holeshots. I also have a fairly new Orion 12x2 revolution motor or $25 shipped. I thought I would give the RB5 guys first crack.
#3056
Tech Master
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Casper ...... give the stock rear SP end a fair go ..... the geometry is so well balanced that I'm sure once you get used to it you'll love it!!!
As for breaking parts on the RB5 I've only broken 1 knuckle but that was a freak accident ... brushed a track marker with a sticking out rbolt head at exactly wheel nut height
My own fault for making the car handle so damn well I can place it to the mm I guess!!!!! LOL
The 244-0 is the stock 0deg hubs
244-05 are the 0.5deg toe hubs from the rear mid conversion .... I am going to try running them on the RB5 reversed to reduce rear toe in as I feel the car maybe a little too hooked up and might be reacting to the sort of bumps we get in the UK ..... no way would I want any less rear rotation!!
I am also planning on running 244-05 hubs giving the 0.5deg toe in on the rear of the Lazer SP along with an A15 or A20 rear pin holder to keep the same overall toe setting (using A25s as a base on my car) but hopefully reducing the tendency for it to be unsettled side-to-side in the rearly roguh stuff and when landing a little iffy from big jumps.
Just a thought.
The RB5 seems near built proof to me, and so smooth!!
As for breaking parts on the RB5 I've only broken 1 knuckle but that was a freak accident ... brushed a track marker with a sticking out rbolt head at exactly wheel nut height
![Frown](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/frown.gif)
The 244-0 is the stock 0deg hubs
244-05 are the 0.5deg toe hubs from the rear mid conversion .... I am going to try running them on the RB5 reversed to reduce rear toe in as I feel the car maybe a little too hooked up and might be reacting to the sort of bumps we get in the UK ..... no way would I want any less rear rotation!!
I am also planning on running 244-05 hubs giving the 0.5deg toe in on the rear of the Lazer SP along with an A15 or A20 rear pin holder to keep the same overall toe setting (using A25s as a base on my car) but hopefully reducing the tendency for it to be unsettled side-to-side in the rearly roguh stuff and when landing a little iffy from big jumps.
Just a thought.
The RB5 seems near built proof to me, and so smooth!!