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Old 11-10-2007, 07:17 AM
  #2551  
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high grip, pink taper/bomb1, windy RYTHM track. mid 13 sec laps for the fast guys....small track so you need a car that cuts!

I got a few PM's about the setup, i'll post it here in a minute...
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Old 11-10-2007, 08:05 AM
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OK so....

Front:

30wt
3A w/o limiter
unthread 3 turns
light yellow spring
middle on tower
outside on arm
link @ middle on bulkhead, inside on arm w/ 2mm washer

Rear:

30wt
2C w/o limiter
silver stock/kit springs
outside on tower
inside on arm
link @ middle on tower side, outside on arm w/ 2mm under both sides
hubs forward
hubs down (pin through TOP hole, closest to axle)

Misc:

13.5ss novak
LRP Sphere comp ESC
maxamps 4000mah 7.4 lipo

1/2oz under steering rack
1/2oz in webbing directly behind the front tower
1/2oz in webbing directly next to servo
1/2oz against rear wall directly under rear tower
1/2oz in webbing directly next to rear tower
1/4oz on top of gear box

and by 1/2oz I mean, ONE 1/4oz brick on each side, across from eachother

Tires:

Front:
pink taper pin front w/ stock foam

Rear:
pink taper pin rear w/ bomb 1 on proline axle

Notes:

This setup has a TON of off power steering, so beware when you let off the gas completely, it's gonna turn, not get loose....TURN. I have yet to experience my car getting lose or washy under any circumstances with this setup and I put about 1 continuous hour on it last night with a pair of lipos.

It doesn't wash out, it just cuts and goes wherever it's pointed. For those of you who like to "push" a car through a corner, you probably won't like this setup...but for those of you like me, who like a car to ROTATE and you have to "turn" the car through the corner, then you're going to high-five me!lol

Basically, you have to be steering the car constantly, because it cuts and goes HARD, be ready is all I'm saying....but if you can get used to the quickness, I think you'll like it
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Old 11-10-2007, 11:30 AM
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So how do you think your set-up would work on a low to med grip track? (I'll guess it might not work to good as your set up is for a high grip track)

Also does the car drive like an on-road car with the way it turns?
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Old 11-10-2007, 11:37 AM
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Thanks for posting that! I will give it a shot for sure! I have my car pretty good (really good actually) but I know there is always room to improve!

Chris
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by carbon madness
So how do you think your set-up would work on a low to med grip track? (I'll guess it might not work to good as your set up is for a high grip track)

Also does the car drive like an on-road car with the way it turns?


I tried changing the rear shock position & spring as suggested.
Noticed a lot more “rotation”.
But I think the set-up is the ticket for high grip blue groove track.

In other conditions when grip is not as high, it just makes the rear "nervous", a little harder to control.

It’s certainly a tuning option, dependent on track conditions.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:45 PM
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hey guys what parts do ya need to order when u order the rb-5? both tuning and spares cheers. btw first off road car so itll get beat up majorly
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:54 PM
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the best word to use to describe this rear end is "ROTATION"....ease off the gas, turn the wheel and hold on! But it doesn't slide, it, rotates. If you let off the gas too fast and too much, it might over steer, I've found that you have to consciously roll on and roll off the gas to have this setup be effective for you. The rear end is super planted though, really an interesting find, I like it.

Personally, I would like a hair less INSTANT grab in the front, so, i'm going to experiment with a few shim placements up front, maybe even go to a longer front link to calm it down. But the rear shock location is really where it's at for me!
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
hey guys what parts do ya need to order when u order the rb-5? both tuning and spares cheers. btw first off road car so itll get beat up majorly
i have broken 3 parts on this car.....2 front right caster blocks and one steering rack. And I drive the piss out of my car! It's been through some major league tumbles, spins, bad landings etc and keeps coming back. Never popped a ball cup, never bent a turnbuckle, arms are original from day 1...I've never owned such a durable car.

KNOCK ON WOOD!
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Old 11-11-2007, 10:06 PM
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I’ve broken 2 items.

1. Front (stock) turnbuckle . It was bent almost 30-deg and it wasn’t a bad crash
I straightened it and continued racing. In the next race, it finally broke and the fracture was, unsurprisingly, the exact same spot.
2. Rear hinge-pin holder in the rear (that holds the back plate). Again, it wasn’t a big hit. Car came to a cruise after the race. Got tapped from the rear. It must have been at an angle, enough to sheer it off. Fracture was near 1 of the screw threads.
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Old 11-12-2007, 07:03 AM
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Here's a setup I have been running the last couple weekends on a high traction indoor clay track. Tacky Clay, you run bald pink taper, and bald pink 7202's.

Front:
3-B Pistons
30wt Oil
Shock ends unscrewed 4 turns
No limiters
Dark Orange Spring
Caster blocks spaced FORWARD ( plastic spacer towards the back on the A-arm )
Axle spaced UP
2-A Link ( middle on bulkhead, inside on caster block )
2mm washer under ball stud on bulkhead
Shock middle on tower, outside on A-arm
2mm spacer under bump steer ball stud.
No weight

REAR:
3-B Pistons
30wt Oil
Shock ends unscrewed 2 times.
No limiters
Dark Yellow Springs
Hinge pin through top hole on hub
2-B link
No washers under ball stud on hub
2mm washer under ball stud on bulkhead
Hubs spaced BACK
Shock middle on tower, inside on A-arm.

EXTRA:
25 degree block
0 camber on front, -1 on rear.
-1 front toe in.
Batter spaced forward
Ride height, arms slightly below level ( with the body off, this will look low by looking at the arms, but will not be low on the track, I will measure this sometime this week and post the actual lengths )
Kyosho MED downforce rear wing
Orion Vortex 6.5
Gearing- 78/21

REAR-BALD pink taper pins in the rear with trinity bomb 1 grey foam.
FRONT-BALD pink 7202's w/stock rear foam.

Please let me know if anyone has any questions!

Last edited by BenEllis; 11-12-2007 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 11-12-2007, 07:29 AM
  #2561  
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for parts i would get front bulkheads, arms, c hubs.....out of 4 rb5s this wwekend, only 2 finished the day, and 3 broke bulkheads.....
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Old 11-12-2007, 07:52 AM
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They slam into walls? I have yet to break my RB5 and none of the racers at our track have broken anything other than an arm after a hard hit.

Originally Posted by mr. losi
for parts i would get front bulkheads, arms, c hubs.....out of 4 rb5s this wwekend, only 2 finished the day, and 3 broke bulkheads.....
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:01 AM
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Ben,

Are you using the stock rear end or are you using the mid lenght arm set-up? What shock shafts are you running. Is this for Planet RC? Also are you going to Albion for there race? Thanks bro.
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:35 AM
  #2564  
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i didn't even think of that....I can stabilize the car more by going with a longer rear hub....I'm running short now, I should play with the hub length, moving it back should slow down that grabby feel also....good lookin' out, ben!
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:42 AM
  #2565  
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Originally Posted by BenEllis
Here's a setup I have been running the last couple weekends on a high traction indoor clay track. Tacky Clay, you run bald pink taper, and bald pink 7202's.

Front:
3-B Pistons
30wt Oil
Shock ends unscrewed 4 turns
No limiters
Dark Orange Spring
Caster blocks spaced FORWARD ( plastic spacer towards the back on the A-arm )
Axle spaced UP
2-A Link ( middle on bulkhead, inside on caster block )
2mm washer under ball stud on bulkhead
Shock middle on tower, outside on A-arm
2mm spacer under bump steer ball stud.
No weight

REAR:
3-B Pistons
30wt Oil
Shock ends unscrewed 2 times.
No limiters
Dark Yellow Springs
Hinge pin through top hole on hub
2-B link
No washers under ball stud on hub
2mm washer under ball stud on bulkhead
Hubs spaced BACK
Shock middle on tower, inside on A-arm.

EXTRA:
Batter spaced forward
Ride height, arms slightly below level ( with the body off, this will look low by looking at the arms, but will not be low on the track, I will measure this sometime this week and post the actual lengths )
Kyosho MED downforce rear wing
Orion Vortex 6.5
Gearing- 78/21

REAR-BALD pink taper pins in the rear with trinity bomb 1 grey foam.
FRONT-BALD pink 7202's w/stock rear foam.

Please let me know if anyone has any questions!
What track? Also camber and castor info? Thanks
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