afm

I'm going on to my third year with Sirios and Sirio/Collari's and have never seen something like that?????? Are you absolutely sure you are doing things right????

I'm now working on STS engines and my Dragon D3R factory modified is ballistic, stable and reliable...To me that engine has the best cost- performance relatinoship I have seen.

AFM

Seisick

yep, on the 3 port the conrod broke at the place where it meets the shaft´s pin, and on the 5 port the shaft broke just before the opening, the engines were always in the 200s f. ran with rd turbo pipe, s 7 plugs and 30 nitro. the 3 port was the first batch of evo 2 (small head and standard shaft). the funny thing is that the track is tight and medium size straight, so the engines were never put into the outer limits of their performance.
tz will be my practice engine and evo for competition.

afm

AHHH......that explains it, first batch of Evo 2 black head Sirio's had an issue with short life of conrod bushing, which created a fast over-tolerance with crank pin, which led to fracture of either rod or crank, if conrod was not changed after break-in. After that factory changed hardness on crankpin and rod bushing for more normal wear...but in any case, running on 30% Nitro on any engine, demands eye inspection of rod-crank play after every race.
I did measurement to crank pin on a new stock Sirio engine and found that it has 4.428mm. The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0.04 – 0.05 mm.
I don't know if you're able to check it, but I suggest as a general rule that engines that are run hard should have a conrod replacement at least every 2 to gallons of fuel regardless of visual inspection.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the quality of fuel you use, as the lubrication and the right carburetion keeps your engine running well for long time.
Obtain the correct factory replacement conrod and "new wrist pin clips". Install the new rod exactly like the old one was before you removed it. Note the oil hole in the conrod should be towards the crank.
The fact that the crankshaft pin must be absolutely round (as must be the hole in the connecting rod) is one of the most overlooked aspects of engine wear, and can result in damage even with a brand new rod. The proper way to measure this is to measure with a micrometer on one axes (in line with the direction the rod would travel) and then again on the axes perpendicular to the first. The difference of these two measurements should be < 0.002 if any. If it has more then change the crankshaft, and bearings.

AFM

romuald31

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Nice. Any info on specs yet?

dameetz

When will this engine available on the market? Is it 3 or 5 ports design?

rs4lola

what is the bore and stroke of this engine?? If it is a longer stroke, then this engine should have more torque for great acceleration and fuel mileage

bennylee

3 ports spec.

Bore 13.8 mm X Stroke 14.0mm

bennylee

5 ports spec.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I can see now we will have a NON ITALIAN made engine that is up to par with the big boys, for below $200 each....
I have the 18TZ for now........that engine is just WAY too crazy for 200mm TC, so I will put that on my 235mm instead.....and this 12TZ will be on my shopping list.....

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Hey Rookie! How are ya? Yeah finally the OS .12TZ is coming. I can't wait to hear about it. May just be my next engine for the R40.

Team-RTR

WOWOW 1.5hp, and we all know that OS rate their engines realistically, this engine should absolutely haul ASS!

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, sup..............I am excited about this engine, Mr. Benny Lee is my motor engineer and he mod all of my engine for racing, when he was modding my OS 18TZ, he realized that the material OS used is up to par (it might be better) then the material that Nova Rossi is using (NR or RR series).......the engineering is as good as the big boys. THAT, gave me confident about this 12 TZ engine.

When I was in HK 3 weeks ago, I finally test run the Benny Lee modded TZ18.............I was using only 25% Trinity fuel, needle still running RICH for brand new engine, my NTC3 is totally UNCONTROLLABLE (totally expected...2.25HP on NTC3 should not be controllable).......but on the 240 feet straight dash, my NTC3 were out run (come from behind) to those with Nova MAX P5 5 port turbo MOD engine 710.....not just 1 time, I tired several times.....my NTC3 is in close range to those 1/8th cars with 8 port MAX motor...

Only downside, 18TZ can only last me close to 4 minutes, it might be because I was still running RICH side....

But this 12TZ, is definitely a good choice of 12 engine.....no more 12TR or R spec, TZ is Nova Rossi standard....I would not say it will be Better then the latest Nova Rossi LL series, but I do not think it will be any less then something like NR3 or NR5.

PS...public price from Japan, P3 = 22,000 Yen, P5 = 24,000 yen, usually, 100 yen = $1 USD, so, it is NOT as cheap as I expected, but the final price should be lower then $220 and $240.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Yeah since the newbs been hearing the .18tz can fit in nitro sedans they all wanna try it and assume they will own everyone. Little do they know what they're in for . I try to convince them to buy something less powerful, but they won't listen. Oh well.

Team-RTR

rookie what is this new LL novarossi motor you speak of?

afm

Go to http://www.novarossi.it/eng/default.htm and search under engines

AFM

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Hey, Rookie, is the os18 a straight fit or does modding need to be done to get it into the NTC3. I do lot racing against alot of 1/8s on their track. I eat most of them up on the infield, but the long straight is too much for me to overcome against the better drivers. This might be the equalizer. I always run touring legal even on the lots, but this might be fun.

Did you try to dial out initial throttle response to control it better?
Thanks
Charlie

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

nitro_D

Go to the Champ RC store and ask masa. i checked their catalogue and they have it for 16,200 yen. this is like a replacement not another choice, it costs the same as pretty much all os engines

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Charles....yes, your concept is right, but not 100% correct.
On my NTC3, I was using 22/29T (Mugen 0.8 centax), that gave me the overall 2nd speed drive ratio 4.14, that is even faster then any Serpent 950R with their tallest drive ratio, and thats how I can pull on those 1/8th except I am so afraid when I was in the close range to them cause their cars are much bigger and stronger then my NTC3, if they are suddently pull to my side, my NTC3 will be in 100 pieces....LOL.

The 18 TZ does have enough HP to make any 200mm TC up to 70mph.........HOWEVER, the down side is...on the in field, car is difficult to control, espeically NTC3, my friends over in HK were only use it on RRR and 710, and they do experience the same thing, ONLY a lot better then NTC3 due to the SMOOTH DRIVE TRAIN on NTC3......so if you are planning to run the TZ and still want to have RACE (track race) capability, BELT drive TC is your better choice....
If you think with the TZ, your TC will still have the same or even better control over the standard 12 engine, I am afraid the 18TZ will disappointed you, the 18TZ does have MORE HP from low to mid range, that is where you will use the HP on the Infield, but those HP, are just WAY too much for a 200mm wide TC to handle.

Overall, I think 235mm Impact / 835 will be a PERFECT fit for the 18TZ.....or HPI Super Nitro RS4.

Almost all of the RACE TRACK, 90% are infield and only like 1-2 seconds of straight line usage, so you really want to have GOOD performance in the infield, and OK performance on the straight line.......nothing is perfect, so does this 18TZ.

But we can always try out the 12 TZ and TZ 5 port.............

P.S...oh, almsot forgot, the 18TZ is a direct fit, no mod need to be made in order to put it on the NTC3, but you MUST use the 3 shoes clutch for higher RPM engugment, or you will have to replace your shoes or spur like every other tank of fuel.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Yes, I was planning to give only like 70-80% of the carb opening and see that will smooth out a little bit of overpowered engine output, but if you look at that the otherway, it is just simply a WASTE and wrong (why 18TZ then, HPI 18SS will do the work for you for much lower price)....you've got a ENZO Ferrari and your speed limit is only 25mph............

Beside, our FINGER can do exactly the same..............only I am not a good enough driver that can control my finger freely to only 80% of the throttle trigger opening.............(always has these letters in my brain saying WOT....lol)

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Good feedback on the TZ rookie. That's sure to convince my friend of not doing that for his R40. Mine still has the MT12, LW 2speed and LW shafts. It's really smooth now. Are you racing the NTC3 only or still have the HPI?

Solara

iTrader: (17)

No, I am no longer having the R40 (I was planning to pick up the 2004 spec but decided I go 1/8th......bad idea....)
I still have the Super nitro RS4....
And NTC3, will use the 15 Sirio or the always good Mugen X12 mod...
Actaully, like I mentioned before, 18TZ are OK to GOOD to have on BELT drive car, even R40......just NOT so sure about NTC3, cause I knew that first hand, and I know belt cars like 710, RRR are all having good fun with the 18TZ while I was in HK 3 weeks ago....

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Rookie, I hear what you are saying about controling the extra power esp on the infield. With my 3 yo rb- x12 in my tc3, I more or less handled my friend at will, with the v15 just because of driving ability. I am not trying to brag, just proving your point. When I drove his v15 against his .18tz, it was the first time driving his car, and I was cautious, but I felt at least as fast as I was with my tc3. If I could have tuned his car in better for me, I feel I could have done better. The drive train of the tc3 scares me, as I started using the 1 way again. I would definately have to use the front diff. Oh and the part of playing with the 1/8s, I have ad my share of run ins with them. Yeah, I'll break down before them almost every time

Solara

iTrader: (17)

When I was running the TZ on my NTC3, I cannot tune my car to gain more rear traction cause I have no parts or tools to do so (I didn't bring anything except the car and radio to HK)....and I don't want to waste my time to FIX my car, so I just drive the car slow...
I hear what you are saying.......and I am sure you can spend a lot of time and make the TZ works on the NTC3, but for me, I rather spend my time on the TZ with BELT cars, I am sure the outcome will be much faster, easier and better then on NTC3.

I will just leave the mod Mugen X12 on the NTC3 and have fun with it........

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

I seldomly think about the .18TZ to run with the 8th scales. Right now I'm being forced to look at expensive .12s to run on a BIG local track of mine as well as some parking lots here. I'll think about it though as long as the drivetrain and stuff will hold up.

romuald31

hello from France,

.12 Tz will run the first round of the french championship this Week end.

feelings an pics sturday evening...

romuald

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Please let us know the TZ are good enough to run with the big boys....and report please....greatly appreciated.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Ditto! I hope the TZ does well so that when my LHS gets it, I'll be sure to buy one.

Atom

Hello all,

Can't wait for a TZ .12 review. I like the OS 12 tr I have its eazy to tune and verrrrrrrrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyy reliable!

I expect nothing less from the TZ and to have a hp increase comparable to those italians mill for less money would definitly be a +++++ in my book.


Thanks!! keep the info comming!!