Cleaning your offroad
#2
dump in a vat of boiling acid. presto! dirts gone!
but seriously. theres no shortcuts,... just use a brush, a damp cloth, a dry cloth wipe and thats it.
but seriously. theres no shortcuts,... just use a brush, a damp cloth, a dry cloth wipe and thats it.
#3
Tech Regular
air blast what you can and them simple green for your stuborn dirt after removing radio tray and then multi purpose silicon spray over the hole lot,fortunatly for me i have a magic and takes 2 seconds to break down job done
#4
I pay $25 cleaning service to my mechanic.
#5
Go over it with an air compressor, then spray it over with some wd-40 and air compress it again. Thats only a temporary method. If i wanted it to be really clean, then i would rebuild the whole thing using the same method (wd-40 and aircompress all the parts).
#6
Thanks for the post.
I happy to see I was on the right track
(pun intended) ugh
I happy to see I was on the right track
(pun intended) ugh
#7
Tech Fanatic
Take off the tires, radio tray and airfilter. Plug the carb and exhaust stinger. Then spray everything down with a degreaser like Simple Green and blast the whole thing with a high pressure hose. Next blow off the water with an air hose and re-lube bearings as needed.
#9
If you use anything with water in it, you might as well tear down the entire car and lube everything.
I don't car how much air pressure you use, water will trap itself between the hinge pins and arms, bearings, and anywhere else it wants to go. I've cleaned cars before using simple green, washed it with water, blew it off with 150+ psi of air pressure, and when it came time to change an arm or something, I found the hinge pin had corroded and bearings had seized up.
Ive found that either brushing it off dry or completely rebuilding works best for me.
I don't car how much air pressure you use, water will trap itself between the hinge pins and arms, bearings, and anywhere else it wants to go. I've cleaned cars before using simple green, washed it with water, blew it off with 150+ psi of air pressure, and when it came time to change an arm or something, I found the hinge pin had corroded and bearings had seized up.
Ive found that either brushing it off dry or completely rebuilding works best for me.
#10
i use simple green and denatured alcohol 25/75 mix and air compressor. seems to work for me just fine.
#11
#13
Key word : seems
I know a few people that HOSE ( soak) they're cars down after each qual. without removing the servos or engine.
Do me a favor and pull out the hinge pin in your car, because unless your running something with TiN coated pins, they will corrode, not much, but enough to distort the hole when you remove it.
As I said before, I either brush it off dry or tear it down completely, nothing in between.
#15
Here's what is working for me.
After Every race weekend:
This process takes me about 20-25 min. I've done it between heats at big races where there was a bunch of mud or the track was really blown out.
Every other race day
This process takes longer and depends really how focused I am. I might spread that out between multiple evenings or might knock it out in about 2 hours depending on what needs to be done.
I've never seen residue from the water left around after I started dry lubing the joins and cvds after cleaning. But if you don't dry it well and don't lube the bearings afterwards.
After Every race weekend:
- Remove Radio Tray, Fuel Tank and Engine
- Soak the kit down with deluted simple green, and let set for about 3-5 min.
- With the water hose I rinse the car off, I don't power wash or hold the car under the hose for a long period of time.
- I hang the car up by it's wing so it's hanging down and air compressor off the excess water.
- Oil every bearing with a quality bearing oil
- Oil with a dry lube the CVDs and hinge pin joints.
- Spray DW40 on a brush and brush down the kit.
- I clean the radio tray, fuel tank and engine by hand with a rag and brush.
This process takes me about 20-25 min. I've done it between heats at big races where there was a bunch of mud or the track was really blown out.
Every other race day
- I follow the steps above
- Tear down the car all the way to the diffs.
- Polish the hinge pins and shock shafts, realm out the arms if needed.
- replace anything that is worn.
This process takes longer and depends really how focused I am. I might spread that out between multiple evenings or might knock it out in about 2 hours depending on what needs to be done.
I've never seen residue from the water left around after I started dry lubing the joins and cvds after cleaning. But if you don't dry it well and don't lube the bearings afterwards.