CHECK THIS OUT 1/36 Micro-T
12-05-2006, 11:58 PM
#63
Originally Posted by crabboy
Why cant you guys just leave the car BOX stock! 
This car is clearley not meant to be hopped up to brushless and lipos 
This car is clearley not meant to be hopped up to brushless and lipos
12-06-2006, 09:49 AM
#64
I got 4 in last night but was only able to open one because the rest are xmas presents. This is going to be fun. I do notice the rear is a bit tight so I will be pulling it apart to loosen it.
Already lost a c-clip on the front tire! Got to have a gentler hand these.
Already lost a c-clip on the front tire! Got to have a gentler hand these.
12-06-2006, 08:31 PM
#66
Okay, answered my own question. For those (Including myself) that were wondering what motor size this little dude has, it is NOT a 130. Look below at the pictures. The motor in the truck is obviously the stock one, the middle motor is a 130 size from a Tamiya Mini-4WD, and the last motor is obviously Castle Creation's 180 size Mamba brushless motor.
Unless someone comes up with something creative, it is virtually impossible to even fit a 130 size motor on the truck, and the only way to get it to work off the bat is to dremel out most of the transmission housing, and lose the rear motor guard. I believe the motor on the Micro-T is a 90 size, the same ones found on many micro helicopters such as the Picco Z or the motor from the Blade CP's tail rotor. I already compared the Blade CP's tail rotor motor to the Micro T's, and while the can diameter is the same, the Blade CP's motor is longer. If anyone managed to find motors that are very close or the same size as the Micro T's, please feel free to fill the rest of us in on it.
Unless someone comes up with something creative, it is virtually impossible to even fit a 130 size motor on the truck, and the only way to get it to work off the bat is to dremel out most of the transmission housing, and lose the rear motor guard. I believe the motor on the Micro-T is a 90 size, the same ones found on many micro helicopters such as the Picco Z or the motor from the Blade CP's tail rotor. I already compared the Blade CP's tail rotor motor to the Micro T's, and while the can diameter is the same, the Blade CP's motor is longer. If anyone managed to find motors that are very close or the same size as the Micro T's, please feel free to fill the rest of us in on it.
12-06-2006, 09:21 PM
#68
Re-quoting this for the new page.
For those that just got their Micro-T, I strongly recommend reading the above and following it to a tee. Mine is running a lot smoother and feels like I already put a bearing kit in it! (Will actually do that this Saturday anyways)
Originally Posted by TC_Tuner
So I've had my Micro T for less than 24 hours. After running one pack thru it, I couldn't help but take it apart and check it out from the inside.
It ran pretty good out of the box, but the drivetrain felt somewhat bound. It would not coast at all on a smooth surface - enough that it would spin out when I lifted off the throttle. The esc also felt 'notchy'. Didn't seem to have much resolution at low speed.
I removed the motor / diff assembly. Once I removed the motor, I connected it directly to the battery to let it run in a bit. Before removing it, I was glad to see the pinion did have a bit of play between the spur (it wasn't bound). While it was running, I applied a bit of lube to the ends. I let it run for less than five minutes, but even in this time, I could hear the motor sounded smoother and just better at the end.
I disassembled the rear end. Before taking the case apart, there seemed to be some binding when turning the spur. Nothing notchy, but just felt heavy. Man, are those diff gears tiny! Everything seemed ok, but I put a drop of lube on the top shaft bushings (also on the outside, behind the slipper), some lube on the diff gears, and carefully put it back together. After assembling the case halfs, I installed the motor and set the gear mesh. With the rear end still out of the car, I connected the battery and let the rear end run for a few minutes. While running, I carefully checked the tightness of the three screws that held the cases together. If these are too tight, it seemed to load the rear end. I also backed off the slipper. It seemed like if the slipper was too tight, it might somehow load the drivetrain. After just a few minutes, the rear end felt much better - back in the truck it went.
After this check thru, the truck runs MUCH better. It coasts like it should and the throttle seems to have much better response. Not sure if it was just mine, but if yours feels like the gear train is a bit heavy, a few minutes of checking it out really helped mine.
happy micro trigger action!
TC_Tuner
Eric Schutt
It ran pretty good out of the box, but the drivetrain felt somewhat bound. It would not coast at all on a smooth surface - enough that it would spin out when I lifted off the throttle. The esc also felt 'notchy'. Didn't seem to have much resolution at low speed.
I removed the motor / diff assembly. Once I removed the motor, I connected it directly to the battery to let it run in a bit. Before removing it, I was glad to see the pinion did have a bit of play between the spur (it wasn't bound). While it was running, I applied a bit of lube to the ends. I let it run for less than five minutes, but even in this time, I could hear the motor sounded smoother and just better at the end.
I disassembled the rear end. Before taking the case apart, there seemed to be some binding when turning the spur. Nothing notchy, but just felt heavy. Man, are those diff gears tiny! Everything seemed ok, but I put a drop of lube on the top shaft bushings (also on the outside, behind the slipper), some lube on the diff gears, and carefully put it back together. After assembling the case halfs, I installed the motor and set the gear mesh. With the rear end still out of the car, I connected the battery and let the rear end run for a few minutes. While running, I carefully checked the tightness of the three screws that held the cases together. If these are too tight, it seemed to load the rear end. I also backed off the slipper. It seemed like if the slipper was too tight, it might somehow load the drivetrain. After just a few minutes, the rear end felt much better - back in the truck it went.
After this check thru, the truck runs MUCH better. It coasts like it should and the throttle seems to have much better response. Not sure if it was just mine, but if yours feels like the gear train is a bit heavy, a few minutes of checking it out really helped mine.
happy micro trigger action!
TC_Tuner
Eric Schutt
12-06-2006, 11:36 PM
#69
I hear ya! I did the same too mine also after just a couple of laps in my garage. Big improvement. On another note The tie rods are rather fragile I broke one sliding into a box today. Made new ones out of some scrap lexan works great and much stronger. These will never break.
I'm gonna make a new set tomorrow just a little shorter to adjust the toe out a little.
I'm gonna make a new set tomorrow just a little shorter to adjust the toe out a little.
12-07-2006, 12:49 AM
#70
Originally Posted by TouringMaster
Just JB weld all the little gears in there. Then your running a locker, more power off the line 
but not so good in the turns 
All matters what you want to do with it. I think I might do a brushless set up.
Any one running a lipo? If so what brand?
but not so good in the turns All matters what you want to do with it. I think I might do a brushless set up.
Any one running a lipo? If so what brand?
how bout some TTHICK grease? like 30k silicone diff fluid or similar..
for lipos i think MM has some 300mah packs or similar.....like 2cm by 3cm by 7mm......7.4v....pretty good i think...
and for the esc i think a tiny 12a ESC will be GREAT! ....any body got some piks of their setup? or truck? i would realy like to see about more of this thing before i buy one.......also how much are they in AUSD?
12-07-2006, 07:41 AM
#71
Builthatch, the only thing I've worked on is bearings. We have them on sale on the site now. They are 2x5x2.5, the same as the mini Z AWD center shaft bearings. These freed up nicely.
Peter, I tried 3 different radios, the stock mini-Z, a Helios with Mini-Z module and a Mars R with a mini Z Radio. All of them worked, except for my Mars R. It seemed to loose signal when close. I'll have to figure something out...
We are already looking into possible LiPo solutions for the trucks. So maybe in a couple of weeks we'll have something, in the meantime we are tearing one down and testing the limits of the electronics.
I must add, these things jump awesome! I was getting about a foot of air the other day, and aside from a little bottoming out, it ran great.
Peter, I tried 3 different radios, the stock mini-Z, a Helios with Mini-Z module and a Mars R with a mini Z Radio. All of them worked, except for my Mars R. It seemed to loose signal when close. I'll have to figure something out...
We are already looking into possible LiPo solutions for the trucks. So maybe in a couple of weeks we'll have something, in the meantime we are tearing one down and testing the limits of the electronics.
I must add, these things jump awesome! I was getting about a foot of air the other day, and aside from a little bottoming out, it ran great.
12-07-2006, 10:22 AM
#72
Got 4 in yesterday, all are sold
ordering 4 more tonight and replacement parts
These things rock. High quality, was a little skeptical before I got em, but now, they are killer.
We will set up our 1st race this weekend
GO GET ONE guys
Stav
ordering 4 more tonight and replacement parts
These things rock. High quality, was a little skeptical before I got em, but now, they are killer.
We will set up our 1st race this weekend
GO GET ONE guys
Stav
12-07-2006, 11:29 AM
#73
Tech Regular
I cant wait to get mine!!!!!!! 
12-07-2006, 01:24 PM
#74
Originally Posted by Thai3g_Eclipse
If anyone managed to find motors that are very close or the same size as the Micro T's, please feel free to fill the rest of us in on it.
has them in their micro part of their site.
12-07-2006, 01:32 PM
#75
You can also go to ezonemag.com in the discussion (Forums) and then to power systems and make a post with a pic and you'll have the answer to what it is your asking.