Mabuchi540

let me know if there are any other pics that might help.

crimson eagle

Try putting the motor in the other way around, if it leans in the other direction then it's the motor and that I have nevr heard of before. Bent pod pates happen all the time. it is possible the pod plate on the other side is misaligned which would cause the problem but that doesn't seem likely.... but then again niether does a bent motor can.

Chris

Mabuchi540

I mounted the motor with the leads at the bottom this time and rather than lean towards the axel it does indeed lean away from it.

Damn!

Edit: Even my 540 Johnson stock motor sits in the pod better (just tried it to triple check).

Thraex

It looks like the motor can is bend. Maybe you can bend it back by putting the screws in it (those that hold the motor to the podplates), put the screws in a vice, and then try to bend it back to it's original position.
Or better, you can buy a new motor, or atleast a new can.
Did you have a big crash lately? If you did, it's indeed more likely that the podplates are bend, but looking at the pictures I don't think that's the problem.

P.S. Maybe those screws that hold the motor to the podplates are bend, but I don't know if that affects the angle of the motor that much.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

If you look at the pic of the motor, you can see that on two opposite sides there are silver marks on the can. These are the high sides and that is were it is rubbing the pods. So your can is a little bend or uneven.

crimson eagle

It could be a high spot on the can itself, if so you could rub it off with a file.

Chris

Mabuchi540

but when it comes to such things (if indeed it is that simple as filing it down) I'm a firm believer in "I shouldn't have to" because that just excuses makers from having decent quality control.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

I have had the same happen from a few different cans. The latest was with a Tamiya Type-RR motor we used for the 2005 Finals in Past Champs. I noticed the funny wear on the spur and noticed the crooked motor, thinking it was the motor mount disassembled the car to find the motor plate true. Mainly I think it comes form the punching action before threading of the can mount holes.

crimson eagle

Mabuchi,

You are absolutely correct, but not wanting to, won't fix the problem. Not buying those motors in the future will fix the problem in the future but right now there is a problem to deal with.

Chris

Mabuchi540

I'm currently thinking of getting this.....

http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/43/501.htm?113

But the question is can I/would I even want to fit my Orion armature in that can?

Secondly, does that motor allow for either mounting my Orion endbell on it (so I don't have to even rewire) or can I change it so that the springs are diagonal from each other (like on the Orion)?

I just like it that way and it fits in with the 10 pairs of standard springs I ordered a few days ago lol.

Thanks in advance.

crimson eagle

Mabuchi,

I'm not the biggest Chameleon motor fan and I'm not sure if this is the C2 even. It is however a very good price but I would not like to mix and match can and en bells from different manufacturers, just use the whole thing. Personally I prefer the Reedy 19T quad mag motor.

Chris

Nick-C

Not much action on this thread lately...

Who's racing their Rev.4's already. Why don't we do a little setup roll-call in light of some of the new tire combos that are out there. I would be interested in seeing what's working well for others.

Here's where i'm at for a medium/high grip carpet track:

Front:

Old School
Springs: 20's
Castor: One Aluminum Washer
Camber: Card Stock Shim
Servo: Mounted Flat
Tires: Jaco 2-Stage Purple

Rear:

Spings: Blue
Fluid: OFNA 10,000
Shock Oil: 45wt
Shock Spring: AE Red
Tires: Jaco 2-Stage Double Pink

Pod is set level with the car race-ready and the tweak springs are hovering slightly above the links not making contact by about 1mm.

Car runs great and has more steering than I can use.

Mabuchi540

Here's where I'm at for a high grip asphalt track:

Front:

Old School
Springs: 20's
Castor: Three aluminum Washers (2 in front/one at back, more on that later)
Camber: Only what's built in.
Servo: Mounted Flat
Tires: Parma Purple

Rear:

Spings: White (medium)
Fluid: Mugen 7,000wt
Shock Oil: 35wt
Shock Spring: AE Silver
Tires: Parma Pink

Ride height Front/Middle/Rear = 4.5/3.5/4.5 mm

The two washers at the front and one in the rear (the same as one in front and none in the rear) was to get the ride height as low as I could with out of the box tires.

The 4.5/3.5/4.5 ride height is not ideal and the rear tends to get a bit tail happy if I apply power to quickly (this is not a TC this is not a TC this is not a
TC )

Still with all that said the above setup does seem to get better the faster I'm learning to drive.

DLM2005

Does anybody know what setup the team drivers were using at the carpet nationals. My set up works pretty good but always looking for improvement!!!!!!!!!!!

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

At the carpet nats and vegas I ran pretty much the same set up...
Front:
Tires: Parma Purple shimmed out 40 thousands around half compound, 1.68 or so diamiter
I ran a camber shim in vegas, but not at the nats
.022 front springs, and 2 degrees of castor
around 3.5mm ride height

Rear:
Tires: Parma Grey, 1.73-5 diamiter
Shock: 30 weight xray/hudy oil, or about 45 trinity/ae/losi
Red spring
Ofna 10k diff oil in damper tubes
Blue side springs, with a hint of preload
Batteries back and low roll centers
Around 3mm of ride height middle and a touch high in the back, and around 2 degrees of pod droop
*also with parms you have to use around 1/8" of shims of each side of the axle to shim it out to full width*
Parma Speed 8 Body

The car was dialed in vegas and at the nats, very stable and easy to drive and conistant throughout the run. For club racing with not as much bite, it might push a bit, you can try a softer tire set up, pink rears and double pink fronts (grey's also wear alot in low bite)

If you have any q's feel free to ask.