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Old 10-27-2017, 10:34 AM
  #2986  
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I continue to optimize my "FF03".
This time the shocks were my focus. I want to try some setup options of my T4. The 2.5-2.8 springs really work nice indoors, so I put them on the TRF dampers. Within the limit of the possible arm uptravel I reduced the height of the upper shock mount. I also cut away a 1.5mm slice of the lower shocklid. This way the shock body is much lower and the suspension still functions flawless.
In this process the front body mounts moved from the motorplate and the carbon brace to the bumper mounts.






From old TC6 capsules I build new spacer for the front upper shockmounts. Now these are only 0.5mm away from the spur. Resulting in a much more inclined shock angle. This should make the car much smoother into the corner and carry better middle corner speed. If I want more upright damperangles I can control it with shims.

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Old 10-27-2017, 11:51 AM
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Looks fantastic, wtcc. I think you need to code name it though... I have an FF03 and it looks nothing like yours.

Do you have a plan to mount a motor fan on it?
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:37 PM
  #2988  
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Definitely!
Right now everytime I glue one on the topdeck. Really ugly
I have to think about a neat solution soon.
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:54 PM
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It's more of a MF-03, rather than a FF-03, because it's a Mid-motor Front-drive car.
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Old 10-28-2017, 09:10 AM
  #2990  
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Back from serious setup work.
The car ran great. With some little changes it was fast and consistent. I could drive most laps within a tenth. The nervous rear is also cured. The M410 body suits the chassis very well. As soon as the ULT-version is available I'll go for that. The regular weight is too heavy and doesn't allow to take the curbs. I also need to bring the track width up. Compared to my T4 it is still several millimeters too narrow.

Shortly before I wanted to try a spool in front, the gear case started to make (not) funny noises and then its inner parts died... 10.5t seems to be a little too much.


Last edited by wtcc; 10-28-2017 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 10-28-2017, 05:40 PM
  #2991  
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Odd. I havent' had any trouble with my brushless XV-01, which uses the same gearbox parts.

If you want to run a spool, get a ball-diff instead, and fit it with plastic pucks instead of diff balls. That will give you a slipper-spool, so you can get spool-like performance while also dissipating excess torque from the motor when necessary.
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Old 10-29-2017, 12:10 AM
  #2992  
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Regarding the slipper spool -- I know Tamiya makes Delrin pucks to convert ball-diffs into slipper-spools, but they might not fit the FF-03/FF-04/XV-01/TA-06 ball diff gear. However, it should be easy enough to drill-out the diff-ball holes a little, to make them wide enough for the Delrin pucks to fit.
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:28 AM
  #2993  
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Thanks for the suggestions, Fyrstormer!
I already glued all balldiff parts together as it is no option for me with a geardiff available.



To my surprise except for the idler gear the transmission is undamaged. The idler gear therefore lost several teeth and half of the remaining teeth are terriby worn.
My search for a strong successor was pretty interesting. Tamiya offers two versions. A white one for the normal FF03 and a black one for the R and Evo versions.







Mine was the weak version from the normal FF03. I ordered the stronger one (part number 54262) and now hope that this problem won't occur again.

I also ordered the Techra suspension mounts to widen the track width and to have more freedom with the rollcenter adjustment.
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Old 10-29-2017, 10:27 PM
  #2994  
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That's actually pretty normal. The idler gear meshes with two gears at once, so it has twice as much wear. Every time I destroy a transmission in any of my RCs, it's the idler gear that fails.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:00 AM
  #2995  
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I need help for the following problem:
My friends and I are driving the FF03 chassis with 17.5t, Tamiya Scirocco lw body and box stock tires. If we drive these tires without additive then they collect the dust and become undriveable after several laps. If we use tire additive then the grip becomes insane and the cars want to grip roll in fast corners, but the tires do not collect dust.
The grip level without tire additive would be perfect. Is there a way to prep the tires before a run without adding grip to prevent them from collecting dirt?

If not how can we prevent the cars from rolling?
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:12 AM
  #2996  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
I need help for the following problem:
My friends and I are driving the FF03 chassis with 17.5t, Tamiya Scirocco lw body and box stock tires. If we drive these tires without additive then they collect the dust and become undriveable after several laps. If we use tire additive then the grip becomes insane and the cars want to grip roll in fast corners, but the tires do not collect dust.
The grip level without tire additive would be perfect. Is there a way to prep the tires before a run without adding grip to prevent them from collecting dirt?

If not how can we prevent the cars from rolling?
I've found the stock tires to be quite difficult to drive with. They just slip and slide as with most Tamiya stock tires (other than rally blocks.)

But is it an option to run say a HPI x-pattern tire? They work quite well with no additives.

Otherwise some people put additive on only the outer or inner edges of tires so that it's not too much.

What are you using for tire sauce?
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:15 AM
  #2997  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
I need help for the following problem:
My friends and I are driving the FF03 chassis with 17.5t, Tamiya Scirocco lw body and box stock tires. If we drive these tires without additive then they collect the dust and become undriveable after several laps. If we use tire additive then the grip becomes insane and the cars want to grip roll in fast corners, but the tires do not collect dust.
The grip level without tire additive would be perfect. Is there a way to prep the tires before a run without adding grip to prevent them from collecting dirt?

If not how can we prevent the cars from rolling?
I would suggest go wider on the suspension blocks front and rear and maybe add wheel spacers too. If your car roll over violently mid corners on power you also want to reduce differential fluid weight. Tight diff is not always the way to go. Also try to only sauce the inside half of the tire. Softer spring might help too to get the car react slower and maybe drag the chassis on the ground a little to prevent roll over if the traction is simply too much.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:07 AM
  #2998  
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Thanks for the suggestions!
Damn grip roll, I am already very soft and low too. I only use additive on the rears. So offset rims will hopefully help. Reducing the diffoil weight will be the last step I want to do...
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:09 PM
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Use stickier tires to begin with, and then it won't matter if the tires accumulate some dust. I use HPI V-Groove Pro Compound tires on all of my on-road touring cars, and they work very well. It's the same rubber compound as the HPI X-Pattern Pro Compound tires that were once the standard for rubber-tire GT racing, the only difference is the V-Groove tires don't have reinforcing belts.

Another thing you can do is use stiffer swaybars, which will force the inside tires to lift more when cornering hard, which will reduce traction and also reduce the likelihood of traction-rolling. And if nothing else works, you can always just slow down for corners.
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Old 12-19-2017, 12:18 PM
  #3000  
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Hello.

Which oil should I use in the gear diff.
Now i use the Kit standard Oil from my M07,but i think,it is not thick enough.
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