Yes they do but they do that through a pair of extra hubs that are mounted on the existing hubs. We have reason to believe that it just isn't thé perfect solution. It will work but not 100%...
what's a better car for pro 10, corally 10sl or sp10x?
Either, the SL is a link chassis, and the SP10X a T-bar chassis. I believe both are available in the standard 235mm widths. Its a preference for some, back in the day we raced the EV10 (one of the first link cars), the YRX10 (a hybrid link design) and they worked and still do work quite well. T-bar cars like the Associated RC10L series, Hyperdrive, Bolink, etc. are as far as I am concerned a bit easier to setup (for me). The trend show the link cars to be the next "evolution". It depends also on parts availability, what is easier to get and maintain.
Hope this helps some.
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R/C'ing since 1982, Pro-10 racing in Germany and Italy in the early 90's, Keil DTM Cup.
The Pro-10 Pusher.
Last edited by drbelleville; 10-15-2011 at 07:02 AM.
Reason: spelling error
Yes they do but they do that through a pair of extra hubs that are mounted on the existing hubs. We have reason to believe that it just isn't thé perfect solution. It will work but not 100%...
As Joost stated its not the perfect fix.
There is a guy who made a conversion in Germany, by just increasing the pod width, and as such you did not have to run the heavier hub extensions - which at times magnified any unbalance of the wheels once the became chunked.
I will post a pic once I find it.
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R/C'ing since 1982, Pro-10 racing in Germany and Italy in the early 90's, Keil DTM Cup.
Yes they do but they do that through a pair of extra hubs that are mounted on the existing hubs. We have reason to believe that it just isn't thé perfect solution. It will work but not 100%...
VIP performance parts makes high quality parts for sure, I totally agree...
I don't want to brag about it but I know for sure that my designs along with the desinging help from the people next to me are also great for the CRC. We race the cars so we know what the flaws are and we solve them...
Materials we use are from good to high quality and I tend to use parts from IRS which are good as they are...
I've also seen that but can't see the product available on their website. Have also emailed asking for info but no reply yet. Not sure but it appears as though the hubs are all new 1-piece items as opposed to the crc which has the extenders. If anyone does know if the serpent kit is actually available please let me know. As with most of the pro 10 gear it can be a little difficult to track stuff down as it is all coming out of Germany/Europe and occasionally only available to European customers. Stormer hobbies in the states appears to stock some things though.
Regarding the 235mm 10sl it appears as though the only things that distinguish it from the 200mm version are a longer rear axle and extended hubs. No wide pod here either. The front end also has less in the way of track and width adjustment possibilities compared with the crc. That said I hear the 10sl diff is very good and I'd probably rate the general quality of corally cars higher than crc. Finding parts from Australia I expect to be the challenge.
Regarding the 235mm 10sl it appears as though the only things that distinguish it from the 200mm version are a longer rear axle and extended hubs. No wide pod here either. The front end also has less in the way of track and width adjustment possibilities compared with the crc. That said I hear the 10sl diff is very good and I'd probably rate the general quality of corally cars higher than crc. Finding parts from Australia I expect to be the challenge.
That is correct. Corally uses longer axle and hubs. The chasis has two different positions for the front suspension, narrow or wide position. Corally uses a 7mm thick axle and bigger size bearings apposed to the associated/irs style axles which are 6,35mm thick. They have been using that concept from a long time ago.
The front doesn't have the adjustability of track width and wheelbase etc of crc but the question is if you really need all those adjustabilities.
The serpent s100 conversion from VIP uses an IRS axle and wide hubs. the space between the left clamping hub and the pod is an aluminiun tube that is put over the axle.
A fellow driver designed and made his own hubs for his Serpent S100. He uses the standard pod and made a wide right diff hub and a wide left clamping hub. That clamping hub goes from the wheel all the way to the bearing supporting the axle. So there is no extra tube between the left hub and the pod.
I have one RCdevil PC10H3X 235 mm and this car is the best i have had ever ( modified motors) . If you plan to use 10.5T Corally 10SL is a very good machine too .
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TRF416X/TOP PHOTON EX/RCDEVIL PC10H3X
F103-Roche Rapide F1 /F104X1-Sybrand Scythe F1
The rc devil is a very good car. It uses the corally diff and axle. Where other cars stop with amount of setup you can do, the rc devil can go further. It has it's price tag though and the setup options can be a challenge to master together with 5 shocks. What i read and hear some find it too difficult and others think it is ok to master it.
