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Old 09-19-2001, 03:22 AM
  #406  
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simon, ive seen all the team drivers use your method....so i presume it is more effective.....
what i have done is i used one ball-cup in the rear because the lack of space....and a ball end in the front (on top-plate)
the thing is first clamp the tie rod on whilst the top-plate is unscrewed....so you can adjust the length (make it tight ad possible).....then when u have the tie rod instaled then put the top-plate in...this way you will get it tighter.....
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Old 09-19-2001, 03:31 AM
  #407  
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Dave Kurschner - Very well said

Thanks
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Old 09-19-2001, 08:25 AM
  #408  
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Default Upper Torque rod

Guys, I wanted to mention something about the torque rods. The main reason that the team guys started using them had to do with the relationship between the motor mounting plate and the rear bulkhead. If you recall, the motor plate that they released did not have the bracing hole on it that was to be attached to the rear bulkhead. So in higher torque situations (primarily modified motors), there could be some motion between the rear bulkhead and the motor plate resulting in a change in gear mesh between the pinion and the spur gears. The torque rods were meant to secure the "gap". On the Worlds car, I used a TOP motor mounting plate which had this brace on it. I used this because I thought the shield in front of the pinion on the Yokomo mount was a pain to work around. The SP motor mount does not have this brace on it. Although the screws do a pretty good job of holding things together, the torque rod is a good backup to keeping things rigid. I haven't implemented the torque rod on my SP as of yet. One thing to consider is if you try to use the torque rod as a belt tensioner/detensioner, you increase your chance of adding tweak to your car or making it more succeptible to tweak upon crashing. I have not had any sort of belt skipping problems but the gear mesh is something that I've been looking into.
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Old 09-19-2001, 08:54 AM
  #409  
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Simon : Looks like you have found a new avatar.
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Old 09-19-2001, 08:56 AM
  #410  
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Anybody have tried those adjustable rear-toe style??
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Old 09-19-2001, 11:01 AM
  #411  
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Ok, a few question if I may interupt the conversation. I just got a Worlds MR4tc, and I need a rear shock tower, and a battery bar.
the pics I have seen, the worlds looks alittle different than the others, does it require a different battery bar, and if so, does anyone have the part number? Anyone have a spare they are willing to part with? I can't wait to race this thing.
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Old 09-19-2001, 11:38 AM
  #412  
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DANIZ24 - what does the capacitor do on your receiver? i saw that before from hara's car and wanted to put one myself just for looks. but now i want to know what it does. thanks! or anyone who know can answer the question.
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Old 09-19-2001, 11:51 AM
  #413  
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Alfred,

it keeps your BEC voltage more stable and help against glitching when you run low wind mods
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Old 09-19-2001, 12:03 PM
  #414  
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STEFAN - thanks for the quick reply. so do you think it's necessary to install another cap into the receiver? it'll look like a team drivers car. hehehe. im all for looks. all show, no go! hehehe
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Old 09-19-2001, 05:01 PM
  #415  
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Intercepter, no, the worlds uses a different battery bar, and I don't think it is very competent. I made a TC3 bar for mine, email me [email protected] and I'll tell ya how to do it

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Old 09-19-2001, 05:25 PM
  #416  
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"The power capacitor is connected between + and - at the receiver. It compensates for the high peak currents which flow, and thereby eliminates interference. It must be connected with correct polarity. Highly recommended for lower-power BEC systems and the ultra-speed servo." : From GM-Racing
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Old 09-19-2001, 09:42 PM
  #417  
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Anyone know if the Reedy MVP would be worth buying at just over half the normal retail?
The shop is selling the standard untweaked one cheap and I was wondering if it's worth snapping up. I have a lathe and access to different brushes/springs etc, so the whole tuned thing is not a problem.

BTW The MVP on special is NZ$65 and the pro tuned Spitfire is NZ$100.

I know the MVP's run hot and I've read a lot about them, are they really any good? It's just that money is fairly tight this month and the motor is only cheap while stocks last....

Dave,
I hadn't thought about the gear mesh problems you mentioned, I always assumed the Torque rod was just for tensioning the belt. I always have a quick look to see if the cars tweaked before I leave home on a raceday, up til now, no problem..
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Old 09-19-2001, 10:23 PM
  #418  
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Simon K - The MVP is a good motor. Like any other stocker, some are better than others. I used an MVP at our track and geared it to where I could get the same lap times (no better or worse) than I did using a P2k and a GM3. Its a good buy at half price. Just slap some 767's in there and let er rip.
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Old 09-20-2001, 04:56 AM
  #419  
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Simon K: I bought an MVP and became somewhat dissapointed with its performance compared to my P2K. So I stopped using it until I read about some alternative way of gearing it. I run a P2K with a 26 or 27t pinion and 78t spur in my Special. I tried the MVP using a 25t pinion (rather than the 28 or 29 that I first tried)and same 78t spur and the performance of the MVP was very close to that of the P2K. The MVP is a very good motor. If you can get it at a discount price, that's makes it even better.
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Old 09-20-2001, 05:06 AM
  #420  
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THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS REGARDING THE CAP. MIGHT TRY IT ONE OF THESE DAYS. HEHEHE
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