TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
Just got my JConcepts Finisher back from my painter. This shell is sick.
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Tech Addict
i've heard that the stock bearings on the 22 arent that great, personally I have to agree. I've noticed they seem to develop alot of slop or completely fall apart, I know for sure my wheel bearings f/r are on the way out, can someone recomend a good set of bearings for the 22. I dont want to purchase cheap bearings and have the same problem down the line.
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I just got the FTW Vane shell to paint. I think this is a good looking shell. Can't wait to paint it. I have to though as I am also getting a new airbrush that I want to try. I'm tired of rattle cans! I'll post a pic once I get it painted up. Lots of room for the esc as well although I think I'm going to rewire mine. I'm using a Speed Passion LPF and even though it fits, I think it will fit better if I rotate it 90 degrees. Right now my receiver plug is rubbing the body on the stock body and the Vane and putting some stress on the wires.
Tech Rookie
Slick track setup..
My local track get slick and bumpy.I have only ran the 22 a couple weekends now and iam really chashing the car what's a good setup for a slick dry track.Any help would be great...
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I'm having some trouble with the slipper tips posted earlier by Casper. Here's the text...
First, what does it mean to hold the slipper? I can hold the spur gear and right tire, but I can't grip the actual slipper plate. If I did manage to hold the slipper, I'm pretty sure the nut wouldn't be able to turn. Maybe I'm just reading this too literally?
Secondly, assuming I'm doing this adjustment right to begin with, I'm having trouble figuring out if my slipper is set correctly. I have the diff tightened to point that it's difficult to turn the left wheel without considerable force. And I have the slipper tightened right to where the slipper nut rotates when I turn the left tire using considerable force. If I tighten the slipper any more at this point the diff starts to slip instead of the slipper. That sounds right according to Casper's tips. But when I try the wheelie test, the front end of the car doesn't lift off the table. It comes close, but if the tires are coming up it's only a quarter-inch or so.
Do I just need to tighten my diff more so that I can set the slipper more tightly? I feel like my diff is already tight, but the slipper thing is throwing me off.
Holding the slipper and the right tire in place with your right hand turn the left tire until something gives. You should be able to see the slipper nut on the top shaft rotate. (should be really easy to turn with the slipper loose.
Tighten the slipper 1/4 turn increments until there is some real resistance. If at any time you turn the left wheel and the slipper nut does not move then the diff just slipped before the slipper. You either need to back off the slipper or tighten the diff up. You need to make sure at all times the slipper gives before the diff does. This is the secret to a long lasting diff.
Tighten the slipper 1/4 turn increments until there is some real resistance. If at any time you turn the left wheel and the slipper nut does not move then the diff just slipped before the slipper. You either need to back off the slipper or tighten the diff up. You need to make sure at all times the slipper gives before the diff does. This is the secret to a long lasting diff.
Secondly, assuming I'm doing this adjustment right to begin with, I'm having trouble figuring out if my slipper is set correctly. I have the diff tightened to point that it's difficult to turn the left wheel without considerable force. And I have the slipper tightened right to where the slipper nut rotates when I turn the left tire using considerable force. If I tighten the slipper any more at this point the diff starts to slip instead of the slipper. That sounds right according to Casper's tips. But when I try the wheelie test, the front end of the car doesn't lift off the table. It comes close, but if the tires are coming up it's only a quarter-inch or so.
Do I just need to tighten my diff more so that I can set the slipper more tightly? I feel like my diff is already tight, but the slipper thing is throwing me off.
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
We now have a different surface so this doesnt really apply but give it a shot it should help some but only when the track is bumpy. Another thing that could help if you track is very hard packed is worn tires may work better since you will have more of a contact patch on the ground. Maybe some tire traction additive as well and make sure you're running the right tire insert.
i've heard that the stock bearings on the 22 arent that great, personally I have to agree. I've noticed they seem to develop alot of slop or completely fall apart, I know for sure my wheel bearings f/r are on the way out, can someone recomend a good set of bearings for the 22. I dont want to purchase cheap bearings and have the same problem down the line.
Tech Addict
I just got the FTW Vane shell to paint. I think this is a good looking shell. Can't wait to paint it. I have to though as I am also getting a new airbrush that I want to try. I'm tired of rattle cans! I'll post a pic once I get it painted up. Lots of room for the esc as well although I think I'm going to rewire mine. I'm using a Speed Passion LPF and even though it fits, I think it will fit better if I rotate it 90 degrees. Right now my receiver plug is rubbing the body on the stock body and the Vane and putting some stress on the wires.
Tech Addict
I'm having some trouble with the slipper tips posted earlier by Casper. Here's the text...
First, what does it mean to hold the slipper? I can hold the spur gear and right tire, but I can't grip the actual slipper plate. If I did manage to hold the slipper, I'm pretty sure the nut wouldn't be able to turn. Maybe I'm just reading this too literally?
Secondly, assuming I'm doing this adjustment right to begin with, I'm having trouble figuring out if my slipper is set correctly. I have the diff tightened to point that it's difficult to turn the left wheel without considerable force. And I have the slipper tightened right to where the slipper nut rotates when I turn the left tire using considerable force. If I tighten the slipper any more at this point the diff starts to slip instead of the slipper. That sounds right according to Casper's tips. But when I try the wheelie test, the front end of the car doesn't lift off the table. It comes close, but if the tires are coming up it's only a quarter-inch or so.
Do I just need to tighten my diff more so that I can set the slipper more tightly? I feel like my diff is already tight, but the slipper thing is throwing me off.
First, what does it mean to hold the slipper? I can hold the spur gear and right tire, but I can't grip the actual slipper plate. If I did manage to hold the slipper, I'm pretty sure the nut wouldn't be able to turn. Maybe I'm just reading this too literally?
Secondly, assuming I'm doing this adjustment right to begin with, I'm having trouble figuring out if my slipper is set correctly. I have the diff tightened to point that it's difficult to turn the left wheel without considerable force. And I have the slipper tightened right to where the slipper nut rotates when I turn the left tire using considerable force. If I tighten the slipper any more at this point the diff starts to slip instead of the slipper. That sounds right according to Casper's tips. But when I try the wheelie test, the front end of the car doesn't lift off the table. It comes close, but if the tires are coming up it's only a quarter-inch or so.
Do I just need to tighten my diff more so that I can set the slipper more tightly? I feel like my diff is already tight, but the slipper thing is throwing me off.
Gens ace batteries.
So i'm trying to decide what batteries I should get for my 22. Right now I have my 5000mah 40c gens ace and i'm wondering if I should get the 4800 25c saddle packs or 4000 30c hardcase pack since they are smaller? Thanks