Kyosho Lazer ZX5 FS/FS2 Thread
#1
Kyosho Lazer ZX5 FS/FS2 Thread
Feel free to share/post your setups, pics, tech tips, whatever pertaining to Kysoho Lazer ZX5 FS/FS2 and the new FS2 SP 4wd Buggy!
Last edited by desertracerdad; 11-14-2011 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Added new model to title
#2
Team driver input welcome!
Team driver's please post anything you might have in regards to setup's, modification's, etc...
Having checked Kyoshoforums.com recently, it seems like it's far and few between posts, so let's see about getting this thread going like the RB5, RT5 and Ultima SC...
HRH Shootout is next week! Any FS drivers have setups that they would like to share?
Having checked Kyoshoforums.com recently, it seems like it's far and few between posts, so let's see about getting this thread going like the RB5, RT5 and Ultima SC...
HRH Shootout is next week! Any FS drivers have setups that they would like to share?
#3
Just bought one..... so thanks for starting a thread. The regular zx-5 thread is hundreds of pages long now.
#4
FS2 Thread
I tried searching for a ZX5 FS specific thread on here, but had no luck so here we are...
I spoke to Kyosho Team Driver, Mike Katz and he gave me 2 setups for the new FS2 that I will be posting on here in a little bit. One being for Blue Groove conditions (Hot Rod Hobbies and similar type track surfaces), the other for indoor/clay. Both of them are when using 13.5t motors, but would work with mod as a baseline, with little tweaks for your tastes.
Give me a coule hours for those and I will try to acquire more setups from the team drivers as I race Hot Rod Hobbies Shootout, next week.
Stay tuned...
I spoke to Kyosho Team Driver, Mike Katz and he gave me 2 setups for the new FS2 that I will be posting on here in a little bit. One being for Blue Groove conditions (Hot Rod Hobbies and similar type track surfaces), the other for indoor/clay. Both of them are when using 13.5t motors, but would work with mod as a baseline, with little tweaks for your tastes.
Give me a coule hours for those and I will try to acquire more setups from the team drivers as I race Hot Rod Hobbies Shootout, next week.
Stay tuned...
#5
FS2 Pics
I have attached some pics of my FS2 (and RB5 SP2), both of which have one day of racing on them.
Let's see what you guys are building, painting, racing!
Let's see what you guys are building, painting, racing!
#6
#8
Diggity Designs...
Thanks for the compliments on the buggies.
I did (at Jayson Pang's suggestion), use Diggity Designs 4mm (Pro) CF shock towers and lipo straps. I will take some pics with the body off here in a little bit and post those pics as well.
As for the setups, I have not been able to use the "editable" setup sheet and save it. What I need to do is take it to work on Monday, scan it into a pdf format and then I will post it up that night.
In the meantime, I have it written up, which will be in the below post. Let me know if it is not concise enough and I will do my best to help!
Cheers! Richard
I did (at Jayson Pang's suggestion), use Diggity Designs 4mm (Pro) CF shock towers and lipo straps. I will take some pics with the body off here in a little bit and post those pics as well.
As for the setups, I have not been able to use the "editable" setup sheet and save it. What I need to do is take it to work on Monday, scan it into a pdf format and then I will post it up that night.
In the meantime, I have it written up, which will be in the below post. Let me know if it is not concise enough and I will do my best to help!
Cheers! Richard
#9
FS2 Team Setup (Indoor/Clay) and Blue Groove
The below setups were given to me, by Kyosho team driver, Mike Katz. He said most of the SoCal guys run this setup as the standard and tweak as needed for there individual tastes.
The differences in setups (suprisingly!?) oil and spring rates. Feel free to use these and modify as needed!
Setup#1 used for indoor/clay
Setup#2 Blue groove (difference listed in BLUE)
Front:
#3 top of tower, #2 on bottom of a-arm
Susp Holder Spacers: Front-#2, Rear-None
Axle-Height Spacer: Up
Bellcrank Spacer: None
Caster Block: 7*
Bump Steer Spacer: None
Position#1 for ballstud on hub carrier
Position#3 for ballstud on bulkhead
Camber: -1*
Toe Angle: 0*
Sway Bar: None
Front Diff: Diff (std.)
21mm Ride Height
Shock Piston: 3B
Shock Oil: 30w Losi 35w Losi
Shock Spring: #65 #60
Rear:
Position#3 on top of shock tower
Position#1 on bottom of a-arm
2mm spacer used on ballstud for rear bulkhead
UM516-0 Alum Rear Hubs, no spacer under ballstud in position #2
Hub Spacer: 2mm in rear
LAW36 R/F susp holder with B-IN position used
LAW37 R/R susp holder with F-OUT position used
Susp Holder Spacers: Front#2, Rear-None
Wing Height: Position#2
20mm Ride Height
Sway Bar: 1.2mm
Camber: -1*
Shock Piston: 3B
Shock Oil: 25w Losi 30w Losi
Shock Spring: #72 #68
Slipper: Pinned (FS2 Option using 2x9.8mm Pin)
FS2 Chassis, Top Deck and Rear A-Arms
Wing Angle 0*
The differences in setups (suprisingly!?) oil and spring rates. Feel free to use these and modify as needed!
Setup#1 used for indoor/clay
Setup#2 Blue groove (difference listed in BLUE)
Front:
#3 top of tower, #2 on bottom of a-arm
Susp Holder Spacers: Front-#2, Rear-None
Axle-Height Spacer: Up
Bellcrank Spacer: None
Caster Block: 7*
Bump Steer Spacer: None
Position#1 for ballstud on hub carrier
Position#3 for ballstud on bulkhead
Camber: -1*
Toe Angle: 0*
Sway Bar: None
Front Diff: Diff (std.)
21mm Ride Height
Shock Piston: 3B
Shock Oil: 30w Losi 35w Losi
Shock Spring: #65 #60
Rear:
Position#3 on top of shock tower
Position#1 on bottom of a-arm
2mm spacer used on ballstud for rear bulkhead
UM516-0 Alum Rear Hubs, no spacer under ballstud in position #2
Hub Spacer: 2mm in rear
LAW36 R/F susp holder with B-IN position used
LAW37 R/R susp holder with F-OUT position used
Susp Holder Spacers: Front#2, Rear-None
Wing Height: Position#2
20mm Ride Height
Sway Bar: 1.2mm
Camber: -1*
Shock Piston: 3B
Shock Oil: 25w Losi 30w Losi
Shock Spring: #72 #68
Slipper: Pinned (FS2 Option using 2x9.8mm Pin)
FS2 Chassis, Top Deck and Rear A-Arms
Wing Angle 0*
#10
Okay, would like to see some shots of the diggity bits. Did you consider the towers and battery brace for your SP2? I may place an order here soon after I check yours out. Thanks.
#11
FS2 Blue Groove Team Setup
I have attached a link to the setup sheet I posted earlier for blue groove conditions. It will take you to Petitrc.com, where you will find most all the other setups for this and other K buggies. Enjoy and feel free to PM me with any questions... More to come during and/or after thise weeks HRH Shootout! RW
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...eTrack2010.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...eTrack2010.pdf
#12
I have a problem in regards to building of the shocks.
I filled the shock body with shock oil until it reaches the base of the internal threads.
After which I cap the shock bottom on and tighten slighly and back off 1/2 a round. Push in the shock shaft(Freaking messy process) and allow the fluid to bleed.
There are 2 outcomes for me:
1) After allowing the shocks to sit inverted for about 10 minutes with the shaft fully extended, it developed a void space(mega air bubble?). It's like you have to push the shock shaft about 2-3mm in before feeling the resistance of the fluid. I tried many bleeding methods to remove the air like aligning the slot to the top and tilting the body to enable the air to escape more efficiently through the slot, then pushing the shaft in. Also the stock method does not work. The void is still there. Is this supposed to happen(a la Tamiya Aeration Dampers style)?
2)After pumping the shocks for about 10 times or so to normalise the pressure in the shock body, I extended the shaft fully. It retracted about halfway into the body, be it with the air or without. Is this normal?
I filled the shock body with shock oil until it reaches the base of the internal threads.
After which I cap the shock bottom on and tighten slighly and back off 1/2 a round. Push in the shock shaft(Freaking messy process) and allow the fluid to bleed.
There are 2 outcomes for me:
1) After allowing the shocks to sit inverted for about 10 minutes with the shaft fully extended, it developed a void space(mega air bubble?). It's like you have to push the shock shaft about 2-3mm in before feeling the resistance of the fluid. I tried many bleeding methods to remove the air like aligning the slot to the top and tilting the body to enable the air to escape more efficiently through the slot, then pushing the shaft in. Also the stock method does not work. The void is still there. Is this supposed to happen(a la Tamiya Aeration Dampers style)?
2)After pumping the shocks for about 10 times or so to normalise the pressure in the shock body, I extended the shaft fully. It retracted about halfway into the body, be it with the air or without. Is this normal?
#14
Shocks
I used K_Kings video demo awhile back and it has been very helpful... Take your time, ensure all components are clean, free of burrs/flashing and you will be rewarded with the best shocks out there... RW
#15
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I just bought a FS2 and I need some information.
It came with the manual but with it came also a special manual of two pages. On the last page on step 36, it is written ball-cup #327 and #328. Can some one tell me what the length is because it seems that I don’t have them in the box? The only thing that I have is the grape with #304,305,297,298.
Thank you
It came with the manual but with it came also a special manual of two pages. On the last page on step 36, it is written ball-cup #327 and #328. Can some one tell me what the length is because it seems that I don’t have them in the box? The only thing that I have is the grape with #304,305,297,298.
Thank you