1LikesTamiya DF-03 type
04-03-2009, 05:20 AM
#526
Blackcat,
i have the KM Koncepts saddle style chassis, the only draw back i see is that the SMC battery packs did not fit, and i also had to do a bit of dremel work to get them in there. the top plate is also about 2-3mm short, so i shimmed that up with 3 washers on the 4 mounting bolts. works like a charm now.
Tom:
looks like those new bumpers are quite a bit longer on the front skid portion. they now incorporate the two screws that mount the front assembly to the chassis. that may serve to increase the strength of the stock chassis. i know i might have to get the new set of bumpers if mine ever wear out. i dont know how they would since they are made from hard delrin! but if i do need new ones, these ones should be the ticket!
i have the KM Koncepts saddle style chassis, the only draw back i see is that the SMC battery packs did not fit, and i also had to do a bit of dremel work to get them in there. the top plate is also about 2-3mm short, so i shimmed that up with 3 washers on the 4 mounting bolts. works like a charm now.
Tom:
looks like those new bumpers are quite a bit longer on the front skid portion. they now incorporate the two screws that mount the front assembly to the chassis. that may serve to increase the strength of the stock chassis. i know i might have to get the new set of bumpers if mine ever wear out. i dont know how they would since they are made from hard delrin! but if i do need new ones, these ones should be the ticket!
04-03-2009, 07:10 PM
#527
mj, I hate to give up using my "grumpy" delrins (I bought the delrin one even though nylon life-time guarantee were out) because I love that cut so much. I guess I can live with the 3-hole design. I bought one of those bumpers anyways because I switched out my carbon fiber chassis for the stock plastic one so I need to strengthen up the front three mount area since that odes look like a weakpoint. Even if I do crack it, I won't sweat it, the chassis is $9.00 I believe, so it's not bad at all. The only trouble is probably the hassle of transferring the equipments.
blackcat, I don't have a picture of the thrust bearing, but I will try to take one next time I disassemble it. But the gist of it is, like all thrust bearings that are assembled with flat washers and steel balls, the secret is the black grease that you use on it. More then a lubricant, the black grease helps to keep the steel balls stay put when you load them onto the washer with a diff bot through it. Once you load six of them on there, just put two more washers on top of it to complete the thrust. Here's a really bad ASCII art of the assembly from the side view:
---||O||]
--------] is the diff bolt
| is the 2.1mmx5mmx0.25mm washer (IDxODxThickness)
O represents six of the thrust ball arranged around
So I just apply some black grease once I load up the first two washers onto the diff bolts. Apply the black grease to face of the washer, on the same side where you load up the steel balls. Load up six steel balls around the diff bolt, the black grease will help it hold it in place, then add the last two washers and you have your thrust bearing...
Hope that helps...
As for the carbon fiber chassis, I was using the 3Racing chassis. Not sure but I'm trying ot test out my theory of why the lower half of the front gearbox keeps cracking. I believe that all of the flex from the impact (pardon the pun) from landing is on the lower front gear box since everything else doesn't flex... I also believe my ultra-stiff shocks (using 75wt oil and all :P) is the cause of this snapping. I'm going to soften up my suspension and just take some chassis slaps...
blackcat, I don't have a picture of the thrust bearing, but I will try to take one next time I disassemble it. But the gist of it is, like all thrust bearings that are assembled with flat washers and steel balls, the secret is the black grease that you use on it. More then a lubricant, the black grease helps to keep the steel balls stay put when you load them onto the washer with a diff bot through it. Once you load six of them on there, just put two more washers on top of it to complete the thrust. Here's a really bad ASCII art of the assembly from the side view:
---||O||]
--------] is the diff bolt
| is the 2.1mmx5mmx0.25mm washer (IDxODxThickness)
O represents six of the thrust ball arranged around
So I just apply some black grease once I load up the first two washers onto the diff bolts. Apply the black grease to face of the washer, on the same side where you load up the steel balls. Load up six steel balls around the diff bolt, the black grease will help it hold it in place, then add the last two washers and you have your thrust bearing...
Hope that helps...
As for the carbon fiber chassis, I was using the 3Racing chassis. Not sure but I'm trying ot test out my theory of why the lower half of the front gearbox keeps cracking. I believe that all of the flex from the impact (pardon the pun) from landing is on the lower front gear box since everything else doesn't flex... I also believe my ultra-stiff shocks (using 75wt oil and all :P) is the cause of this snapping. I'm going to soften up my suspension and just take some chassis slaps...
04-04-2009, 05:34 AM
#528
Tech Apprentice
Hi Mjderstine,
I've had a look at the three racing chassis I've got and may have to steal your excellent idea of raising it a bit with some shims otherwise it would be some serious dremeling and re-location of mounting points. I'll give it a go and report back.
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your ASCII effort and your use of thick grease is also a good idea with which to capture the bearings. I have just finished moving the front diff to the back and vice versa. It's a good job that I did as I noticed a shattered bearing on the front diff that had left some shrapnel in the mesh chewing up the bevel gears. As everyone else has found though (I'm sure) I have plenty of spares so I have more or less ripped the entire drivetrain apart replaced and cleaned everything. I have had a few runs after re-building and can honestly say that it's running better than ever. Very smooth and without any problems so far. I've decided not to thrash it on my street so as to preserve everything ready for racing on Sunday.
I'll give the DIY thrust bearing a try too but wait until after Sunday when I'm sure another tear down and clean will be required. Having swopped diffs around the thrust bearing on the front was perfect compared to the rear thrust and I've left both diffs on the side of slightly loose again in an effort to preserve these bearings and reduce friction slightly. I went crazy with some teflon lube so maybe this will help too.
I've had a look at the three racing chassis I've got and may have to steal your excellent idea of raising it a bit with some shims otherwise it would be some serious dremeling and re-location of mounting points. I'll give it a go and report back.
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your ASCII effort and your use of thick grease is also a good idea with which to capture the bearings. I have just finished moving the front diff to the back and vice versa. It's a good job that I did as I noticed a shattered bearing on the front diff that had left some shrapnel in the mesh chewing up the bevel gears. As everyone else has found though (I'm sure) I have plenty of spares so I have more or less ripped the entire drivetrain apart replaced and cleaned everything. I have had a few runs after re-building and can honestly say that it's running better than ever. Very smooth and without any problems so far. I've decided not to thrash it on my street so as to preserve everything ready for racing on Sunday.
I'll give the DIY thrust bearing a try too but wait until after Sunday when I'm sure another tear down and clean will be required. Having swopped diffs around the thrust bearing on the front was perfect compared to the rear thrust and I've left both diffs on the side of slightly loose again in an effort to preserve these bearings and reduce friction slightly. I went crazy with some teflon lube so maybe this will help too.
04-04-2009, 11:12 AM
#529
Tech Apprentice
Hi everyone,
Good news the uprated differential is working perfectly and having swopped and replaced both diffs, front and rear, the Impact is driving impecably. I now need to dial in the camber, toes etc..
I am probably going to heed the advice given in earlier posts and stick a lesser motor in as I'm running out of road very quickly and a new problem has now presented itself. I know I said I wouldn't be driving it until tomorrow but temptation got the better of me and in a way it's good that I did.
The new problem I have now is that the rear differential case has been 'blown off' by the stupid amount of power from the 4.5 motor. The case has the mounts to hold the differential in via the bearings and after a high speed pass the screw points holding it have snapped off spewing differential over the road in front of me and making that scary screaming gear noise-bugger.
This is particularly annoying as it's such a simple part but bloody important. I now have to get a replacement and am considering using super/crazy glue to temporarily hold the broken one together for racing. My fault for using the 4.5 motor, I have a spare 6.5 Hacker which I've used before so will stick that back in.
Sorry to keep posting stuff thats probably been dealt with in previous posts, my girlfriend falls asleep before I even mention the word differential and this thread is allowing me to vent my frustration.
Good news the uprated differential is working perfectly and having swopped and replaced both diffs, front and rear, the Impact is driving impecably. I now need to dial in the camber, toes etc..
I am probably going to heed the advice given in earlier posts and stick a lesser motor in as I'm running out of road very quickly and a new problem has now presented itself. I know I said I wouldn't be driving it until tomorrow but temptation got the better of me and in a way it's good that I did.
The new problem I have now is that the rear differential case has been 'blown off' by the stupid amount of power from the 4.5 motor. The case has the mounts to hold the differential in via the bearings and after a high speed pass the screw points holding it have snapped off spewing differential over the road in front of me and making that scary screaming gear noise-bugger.
This is particularly annoying as it's such a simple part but bloody important. I now have to get a replacement and am considering using super/crazy glue to temporarily hold the broken one together for racing. My fault for using the 4.5 motor, I have a spare 6.5 Hacker which I've used before so will stick that back in.
Sorry to keep posting stuff thats probably been dealt with in previous posts, my girlfriend falls asleep before I even mention the word differential and this thread is allowing me to vent my frustration.
04-04-2009, 07:01 PM
#530
The new problem I have now is that the rear differential case has been 'blown off' by the stupid amount of power from the 4.5 motor. The case has the mounts to hold the differential in via the bearings and after a high speed pass the screw points holding it have snapped off spewing differential over the road in front of me and making that scary screaming gear noise-bugger.
Well, I went through several of the lower front half of the front trasmission case, which is on the same parts tree, A-Parts, so maybe you should stock up on a few of those since many of the A-parts are easily broken...
About the differentials, that's good news. On my DF-03, all I use are the steel outdrives for both front and rear. I never bothered to assemble the half-plastic/half-steel outdrive on the rear. I was very intrigued by the DF-03 after I read Jimmy's (oople.com) review of the car and carefully took notes of every area that he stated may be a weak point...
Well, I hope that you do well in the races. You should try scrolling back to the first few pages of this thread where I show all the hopups I bought for this car. Right now, the aluminum parts I use are the front brace (Five Stars), rear hinge brace (3Racing), rear transmission brace (3Racing), and the stock heat sink bars that came with the "MS" version of the kit. Oh yeah, I also use the aluminum nuckles front and rear because I didn't want to drill 2mm holes for grub screws, and also the aluminum C-Hub carriers up front. Also, I use the 3Racing's steering setup because I don't want to deal with the bushing-based steering rack that the kit came with. I suppose you can just get the bearings to replace the brass bushing that it comes with, but the 3Racing steering upgrade was fairly cheap...
Oh, non-aluminum stuff that I upgraded to were the ballcups. I believe the Tamiya ones that came with the kit are pretty flimsy, so I swapped them all out after I stripped the first ball cup from running the car. I use the Kyosho's ballcups, which seems really, really beefy...
04-04-2009, 07:33 PM
#531
I dont see how you did that honestly... I ran 3s lipo on both a VXL motor and on the MM5700... I fried diff after diff but I never blew off my transmission case... Thats insane...
04-05-2009, 02:08 AM
#532
Tech Apprentice
Hi Tom and Streetracer,
Yeah I'm not sure how the diff case failed so spectacularly either. I think the hard use of braking was to blame and the bearings that the diff case was holding must have been under some serious pressure, maybe it the added rotational mass of my improved diff? It is significantly heavier than a stock diff since it was machined from mild steel. When we designed it the weight really was not something I thought would be a problem since the 4.5 motor has more than enough power to deal with the added mass. On paper the 4.5 motor can deliver just over 700watts so quite a bit of power and any weak points will soon present themselves as I'm finding out.
On a plus note the whole set-up is perfect with motor, esc and batteries remaining at very good temperatures. I made sure I tested on some long grass to really stress the drivetrain and electronics and gave it lots of acceleration/braking. So I'm quite happy with the set-up and I'm sure with a lesser 6.5 motor there shouldn't be any suprises.
Tom, I've just ordered a couple of A-trees, chassis and tires which annoyingly came to around $45(31GBP). The alloy parts I've made an effort to avoid as I think most are unneccessary and again added weight may screw the handling(?) How does your Impact deal with the alloy? Do notice any effects from it? Do you save money in the long run when compared to replacing plastic parts?
When I get in from racing later I'll post some pics of my Impact if you promise not to laugh at the novice paint scheme and the duct tape.
Yeah I'm not sure how the diff case failed so spectacularly either. I think the hard use of braking was to blame and the bearings that the diff case was holding must have been under some serious pressure, maybe it the added rotational mass of my improved diff? It is significantly heavier than a stock diff since it was machined from mild steel. When we designed it the weight really was not something I thought would be a problem since the 4.5 motor has more than enough power to deal with the added mass. On paper the 4.5 motor can deliver just over 700watts so quite a bit of power and any weak points will soon present themselves as I'm finding out.
On a plus note the whole set-up is perfect with motor, esc and batteries remaining at very good temperatures. I made sure I tested on some long grass to really stress the drivetrain and electronics and gave it lots of acceleration/braking. So I'm quite happy with the set-up and I'm sure with a lesser 6.5 motor there shouldn't be any suprises.
Tom, I've just ordered a couple of A-trees, chassis and tires which annoyingly came to around $45(31GBP). The alloy parts I've made an effort to avoid as I think most are unneccessary and again added weight may screw the handling(?) How does your Impact deal with the alloy? Do notice any effects from it? Do you save money in the long run when compared to replacing plastic parts?
When I get in from racing later I'll post some pics of my Impact if you promise not to laugh at the novice paint scheme and the duct tape.
04-05-2009, 07:12 AM
#533
Tech Addict
Hey guys,
Glad to see you all making progress with the DF03!
Well, today was the first track day for it's replacement, my DB01. I said a while back that I'd post up a comparison when I got to run it so here it goes...
The DB01 faired very well. Mine isn't stock though, and has just about every Tamiya hop made for it - at least the most impotant ones, stuff for durability, etc. My DF03 wasn't stock though by any means either, and had a bunch of goodies too.
The first thing I noticed about the DB01 is that it's virtually silent. Couldn't even hear the drivetrain from the drivers' stand. It was also butter smooth. My DF03 seemed like it was a little snappier, which it should be (shaft drive), but on our extremely loose surface, the DB01 was just right.
The other thing I noticed is that my DB01 jumped way better, which is weird because I thought my DF03 was a great jumper. The DB01 responded to inputs in the air with ease, and was very stable. No chassis slapping at all like I've read about, but I'm also using a different set up than most.
I had my DF03 set up really good too, but it still chassis slapped.
I think the main thing is that the DB01 seemed much heavier than my DF03, which may have added to it's stabiliity. It's also bulletproof. There were a couple of times I tried to clear this tripple, and it got ugly, real ugly. It never broke, and always came back for more.
I actually got the DB01 because of DF03 parts availability (lack thereof), but it ended up being so much more than I expected. It was hooked up just about everywhere on the track, which made it a joy to drive.
Having said that, I still miss my DF03, and I'm not bashing it because I'm still a fan of the layout, but the DB01 is just a better car overall.
Now, give me a DF03 made from the DB01 plastic, and I'll gladly give it another go.
- Paulie
Glad to see you all making progress with the DF03!
Well, today was the first track day for it's replacement, my DB01. I said a while back that I'd post up a comparison when I got to run it so here it goes...
The DB01 faired very well. Mine isn't stock though, and has just about every Tamiya hop made for it - at least the most impotant ones, stuff for durability, etc. My DF03 wasn't stock though by any means either, and had a bunch of goodies too.
The first thing I noticed about the DB01 is that it's virtually silent. Couldn't even hear the drivetrain from the drivers' stand. It was also butter smooth. My DF03 seemed like it was a little snappier, which it should be (shaft drive), but on our extremely loose surface, the DB01 was just right.
The other thing I noticed is that my DB01 jumped way better, which is weird because I thought my DF03 was a great jumper. The DB01 responded to inputs in the air with ease, and was very stable. No chassis slapping at all like I've read about, but I'm also using a different set up than most.
I had my DF03 set up really good too, but it still chassis slapped.
I think the main thing is that the DB01 seemed much heavier than my DF03, which may have added to it's stabiliity. It's also bulletproof. There were a couple of times I tried to clear this tripple, and it got ugly, real ugly. It never broke, and always came back for more.
I actually got the DB01 because of DF03 parts availability (lack thereof), but it ended up being so much more than I expected. It was hooked up just about everywhere on the track, which made it a joy to drive.
Having said that, I still miss my DF03, and I'm not bashing it because I'm still a fan of the layout, but the DB01 is just a better car overall.
Now, give me a DF03 made from the DB01 plastic, and I'll gladly give it another go.
- Paulie
04-05-2009, 09:55 AM
#534
I really wish they would re-release the df03 and make it as durable as the DB01... It would be the perfect layout IMO if it was tough and had a durable drivtrain(the weakest part of the buggy if you ask me...). Maybe they should add soem weight to make it a little more stable like the DB01 as well?
04-05-2009, 02:54 PM
#535
Paulie is right and he dominated the open class with the DB-01...but...
I ran the same race and the only broken part was a captured turnbuckle eye. There were two other DF-03s that did not break at all and two other DB-01s, one DB-01 owned by Jason snapped two A arms and bent hinge pins and broke capture blocks.
So in the end the DF-03 can survive our track-(which is closing end of April,
due to it's next to a golf course and are allowed to run noisy nitro) The DB-01 does have superior durability in plastic and design, but the driver's experience will make a world of difference, not just in winning but staying in the track.
I think if Paulie would have stuck it out with the DF-03 he still would be on top and not break anything as his driving is phenom.
I am mulling over the DB-01 and switching the DF-03 to 23t class.
Great job driving Paulie, he even beat Iggy and his Losi 8t with a MMM 2200kv, but if Iggy was driving his DF-03..hmmmmmmmmmmm
I ran the same race and the only broken part was a captured turnbuckle eye. There were two other DF-03s that did not break at all and two other DB-01s, one DB-01 owned by Jason snapped two A arms and bent hinge pins and broke capture blocks.
So in the end the DF-03 can survive our track-(which is closing end of April,
due to it's next to a golf course and are allowed to run noisy nitro) The DB-01 does have superior durability in plastic and design, but the driver's experience will make a world of difference, not just in winning but staying in the track.I think if Paulie would have stuck it out with the DF-03 he still would be on top and not break anything as his driving is phenom.
I am mulling over the DB-01 and switching the DF-03 to 23t class.
Great job driving Paulie, he even beat Iggy and his Losi 8t with a MMM 2200kv, but if Iggy was driving his DF-03..hmmmmmmmmmmm
04-05-2009, 05:21 PM
#536
Ditto with the plastics specified on the DF-03 design. I think Tamiya would've had three winning buggies (501x, DB-01, DF-03) if they used the same type of plastics found on the DB-01 on the DF-03. I know the mold is there, just have to specify a different type of plastic injected into it...
But the DF-03 is quite phenomenal in the handling. I think the shocks are a little weird because the weight distribution is a little different. I found that if I used the same weight oil for front and rear, the car tended to handle on the jumps. I usually have a bias of 10wt or so for the front on all my 4wd, but the rear seems like it can use a stiffer oil then usual because of the weight bias towards the rear.
A little update on the body, I've just finished painting the Fire Dragon body, still kinda scratching my head on what is the best way to mount it to a DF-03 chassis setup. I think the nose will have to be sawed-off just like the Hornet body mod but I have to be careful and chop it off at the right spot.
I'm going to wait for my Fire Dragon kit to come in, then finish building that kit, that way, I can get a wheel-to-wheel line-up of the Fire Dragon and the DF-03 to determine where to saw off the nose of the extra Fire Dragon body I got for my DF-03. Should be interesting to see two similar looking cars with nearly 20 years of technology apart...
But the DF-03 is quite phenomenal in the handling. I think the shocks are a little weird because the weight distribution is a little different. I found that if I used the same weight oil for front and rear, the car tended to handle on the jumps. I usually have a bias of 10wt or so for the front on all my 4wd, but the rear seems like it can use a stiffer oil then usual because of the weight bias towards the rear.
A little update on the body, I've just finished painting the Fire Dragon body, still kinda scratching my head on what is the best way to mount it to a DF-03 chassis setup. I think the nose will have to be sawed-off just like the Hornet body mod but I have to be careful and chop it off at the right spot.
I'm going to wait for my Fire Dragon kit to come in, then finish building that kit, that way, I can get a wheel-to-wheel line-up of the Fire Dragon and the DF-03 to determine where to saw off the nose of the extra Fire Dragon body I got for my DF-03. Should be interesting to see two similar looking cars with nearly 20 years of technology apart...
04-05-2009, 05:54 PM
#537
good info guys. great to see all the action going on in this thread!!
i have some thing coming for my df03. i have the jconcepts wing coming and also the stock wing from the xxx. both were really cheap at stormerhobbies,
i also bought all 3 sets of 2.5x25mm screws that jasonsstore had on ebay to rebuild my diffs.
the worst thing is that i have to send in my ESC and motor to get fixed at castlecreations. the motor was stripped and the ESC broke the throttle plug. so my plan is to use my 13turn motor and duratrax streak esc. i am going to need to down gear some so that i dont burn my esc or motor. but it should work for now...
i will let you all know how this thing works with a BRUSHED motor! haha
i have some thing coming for my df03. i have the jconcepts wing coming and also the stock wing from the xxx. both were really cheap at stormerhobbies,
i also bought all 3 sets of 2.5x25mm screws that jasonsstore had on ebay to rebuild my diffs.
the worst thing is that i have to send in my ESC and motor to get fixed at castlecreations. the motor was stripped and the ESC broke the throttle plug. so my plan is to use my 13turn motor and duratrax streak esc. i am going to need to down gear some so that i dont burn my esc or motor. but it should work for now...
i will let you all know how this thing works with a BRUSHED motor! haha
04-05-2009, 06:36 PM
#538
Good news on the DB-01 paulie, but don't feel guilty for switching over, I'm not a fan boy and I hope no one in here is either. Besides, Tamiyas are Tamiyas, I love all things Tamiya! There is no rivalry between the DF-03 and DB-01 buggies because they are two very different cars. Owning one doesn't prevent you from owning the other, often times, we RC addicts end up doing that anyways! 
I just pulled my Fire Dragon body in from my backyard and I must say, I LOVE the Tamiya COLOR spray paints (the one for the polycarbs). They sprayed on very evenly and didn't clump up. The color is very rich and very deep in tone. I've always loved their polycarb paints and I think I'm going to continue using them. They are the best IMO...
Time to start trimming the body so I can peel back the overspray film to truly see the color...
My FD DF-03 project is coming along, slowly but surely...
I just pulled my Fire Dragon body in from my backyard and I must say, I LOVE the Tamiya COLOR spray paints (the one for the polycarbs). They sprayed on very evenly and didn't clump up. The color is very rich and very deep in tone. I've always loved their polycarb paints and I think I'm going to continue using them. They are the best IMO...
Time to start trimming the body so I can peel back the overspray film to truly see the color...
My FD DF-03 project is coming along, slowly but surely...
04-07-2009, 12:04 AM
#539
For those that aren't aware of my other thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...e-tamiyas.html
Here are some pics of the freshly painted Fire Dragon body with my DF-03 that has been reworked into the stock plastic chassis and general plastic goodness...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...e-tamiyas.html
Here are some pics of the freshly painted Fire Dragon body with my DF-03 that has been reworked into the stock plastic chassis and general plastic goodness...
04-07-2009, 05:42 AM
#540
TOM:
that body looks really good, how does it look when resting on the chassis? does it look like you are going to have to cut a lot from it? sure hope you dont have to.
I love the DB01 as well, and if i had the chance i think i would make that my other 1/10th buggy, but for now my DF03 will have to do
i spent the night putting my GPM universal drive shafts on, and putting the gear mesh back in order on my brushed motor. i also got the duratrax streak in there for the brains. i tell you what, this hot 13T brushed motor is just a hair slower than the 4600. it doesnt have the same high end grunt the 4600 does, but the low end is all there. it will still do the spinning donuts. i bashed for abotu 5 minutes int he driveway, trying to simulate some track driving with heavy breaking, and hard accelerations, and the temps on the motor after about 5 minutes were about 145-150 degrees F. i think i can get it to the track Wednesday for practice, and really see how this brushed motor does.
now that i see a brushed motor in the chassis, it is easy to see that the chassis was designed around a brushed motor and not a mamba length can. the motor slid right in and had no issues at all getting the gear mesh lined up.
the only issue i have with this chassis the lack of room for all my elecs. it would be nice to have more material in front for the batteries so i could put the ESC down there.
maybe its just time to get the nice little tekin ESC to put in there! it would save some headache with less wires, and soldering posts for the wiring.
i also got my shipment from stormerhobbies with two new wings, and two sets of diff balls, just steel, i just couldn't justify the extra money for the harder ones, even though, i know it is worth the money.
just waiting on the shipment from HK for the 2.5x25 diff bolts, and i can get the rear diff back to a diff, and not a solid axle
that body looks really good, how does it look when resting on the chassis? does it look like you are going to have to cut a lot from it? sure hope you dont have to.
I love the DB01 as well, and if i had the chance i think i would make that my other 1/10th buggy, but for now my DF03 will have to do
i spent the night putting my GPM universal drive shafts on, and putting the gear mesh back in order on my brushed motor. i also got the duratrax streak in there for the brains. i tell you what, this hot 13T brushed motor is just a hair slower than the 4600. it doesnt have the same high end grunt the 4600 does, but the low end is all there. it will still do the spinning donuts. i bashed for abotu 5 minutes int he driveway, trying to simulate some track driving with heavy breaking, and hard accelerations, and the temps on the motor after about 5 minutes were about 145-150 degrees F. i think i can get it to the track Wednesday for practice, and really see how this brushed motor does.
now that i see a brushed motor in the chassis, it is easy to see that the chassis was designed around a brushed motor and not a mamba length can. the motor slid right in and had no issues at all getting the gear mesh lined up.
the only issue i have with this chassis the lack of room for all my elecs. it would be nice to have more material in front for the batteries so i could put the ESC down there.
maybe its just time to get the nice little tekin ESC to put in there! it would save some headache with less wires, and soldering posts for the wiring.
i also got my shipment from stormerhobbies with two new wings, and two sets of diff balls, just steel, i just couldn't justify the extra money for the harder ones, even though, i know it is worth the money.
just waiting on the shipment from HK for the 2.5x25 diff bolts, and i can get the rear diff back to a diff, and not a solid axle
